Anthony Vaccarello Presents Final Collection at Paris Fashion Week

Anthony Vaccarello's departure from Saint Laurent has been a topic of speculation for weeks, but on Tuesday he presented his swan song collection under the grandeur of gold chandeliers and the iconic Eiffel Tower at Paris Fashion Week.

The rumor mill had been turning for months, with many attendees carrying the idea that Vaccarello was leaving the brand. The collection itself seemed to acknowledge this reality, as it featured a predominantly gold palette with only a few nods to Saint Laurent's heritage in the form of black organza gowns reminiscent of the 1991 Rive Gauche collection.

The designer's own background is marked by art and fashion. Born in Belgium to Sicilian parents in 1982, Vaccarello initially studied law before switching his focus to sculpture at La Cambre in Brussels. This artistic foundation served him well as he launched his career, winning the Hyères Festival fashion prize in 2006 alongside Julien Dossena and Felipe Oliveira Baptista.

After working under Karl Lagerfeld at Fendi, Vaccarello co-founded his own label with partner Arnaud Michaux in 2009. The pair's success was swift, earning them the ANDAM fashion prize just two years later.

Vaccarello's tenure at Saint Laurent was marked by a distinct design vision that streamlined the brand's rich history. He drew inspiration from iconic pieces like Yves Saint Laurent's "Le Smoking" tuxedo for women, reinterpreting them in a bold and feminine way.

At the helm of Versus, Donatella Versace's diffusion line, Vaccarello had already demonstrated his ability to distill complex design legacies into cohesive collections. In this role, he honed his skill at selecting key elements from a brand's past and amplifying them into a clear visual identity.

Vaccarello's approach to design was characterized by precision and restraint. He often focused on a limited number of ideas or concepts, allowing him to develop them thoroughly and create a sense of continuity across collections. This strategy allowed the brand to build a strong and recognizable aesthetic.

The result of Vaccarello's efforts was a Saint Laurent identity marked by dramatic silhouettes, boxy shoulders, and statement accessories like pointy stilettos. His vision for the brand was unapologetically feminine, yet still rooted in the androgynous, bourgeois spirit of its founder.

Anthony Vaccarello's final collection for Saint Laurent was a testament to his enduring influence on the fashion world. For Fall 2026, he presented a diverse range of looks that paid homage to the brand's rich heritage while pushing boundaries with bold, modern designs.

The collection featured an eclectic mix of dark, sophisticated suits alongside more playful, feminine pieces like silicone-coated lace dresses and skirt sets. This blend of contrasting styles was reminiscent of Vaccarello's earlier work, which often balanced masculine and feminine elements.

Throughout his tenure at Saint Laurent, Vaccarello has cultivated a network of high-profile female ambassadors who have helped to define the brand's aesthetic. These women, including Hailey Bieber, Zoë Kravitz, and Rosé, have not only fronted campaigns but also frequently attended Vaccarello's elaborate runway shows.

As Vaccarello departs Saint Laurent after 10 years at the helm, his legacy is cemented by his innovative approach to fashion and his dedication to supporting emerging talent through initiatives like Saint Laurent Productions.