Anthony Vaccarello steps down as creative director of Saint Laurent after decade-long tenure

Anthony Vaccarello has officially stepped down as creative director of Saint Laurent, marking the end of a decade-long tenure that few would have predicted when it began in April 2016.

Vaccarello took over the role at just 36 years old after Hedi Slimane's departure from the house four days earlier. His appointment was seen as a bold move by then-Saint Laurent CEO Francesca Bellettini, who recognized Vaccarello's potential despite his relatively young age and limited experience in the fashion industry.

At the time, Vaccarello had already established himself as a rising star in the world of fashion, having led his eponymous label since 2009 and collaborated with Versus on its second line. His sensually powerful designs had earned him critical acclaim, including a win at the prestigious Andam Fashion Award in 2011.

The house will now announce its new creative leadership, as Saint Laurent prepares to move forward without Vaccarello's creative vision.

Under Vaccarello's leadership, the YSL brand revenue surged from €974 million in 2015 to a staggering €3 billion in 2022, marking a significant growth spurt that far exceeded expectations.

This impressive financial performance was partly due to Vaccarello's unique blend of creativity and business acumen. He drew inspiration from his Belgian upbringing and education at La Cambre, while also tapping into the provocative spirit inherited from his Sicilian parents.

Vaccarello's ability to reinvent YSL's image-making strategies allowed the brand to expand its scope beyond Slimane's signature style. This move not only revitalized the brand but also reestablished Yves Saint Laurent as the quintessential Parisian fashion house, embodying the city's modern essence.

His shows, including the highly acclaimed Trocadéro presentation with the Eiffel Tower backdrop, became must-see events in the fashion world, generating unparalleled visual tension and attention. From Fall 2019 onwards, Vaccarello's collections began to push the boundaries of Saint Laurent's silhouettes and codes, injecting fresh energy into the brand.

The Saint Laurent show on September 29 marked a significant milestone in Anthony Vaccarello's tenure at the brand, staged exactly 10 years and two days after he first took to the runway as creative director.

The presentation was an ode to gold, with 49 looks showcased beneath the Eiffel Tower and three towering candlelit chandeliers. The color palette gradually gave way to a finale in black, a deliberate nod to Yves Saint Laurent's Fall 1991 Rive Gauche collection, which had ended in a similar fashion.

The show was notable for its adherence to Vaccarello's signature rigor, revisiting classic silhouettes such as sahariennes and pencil skirts with an amplified sense of discipline. The collection also featured brocades and evening dresses, further cementing the designer's penchant for revisiting and reinterpreting the brand's vocabulary.

As expected, the show had a sense of finality to it, with Vaccarello's departure from the brand having been rumored since the summer. Despite not granting preview interviews, he chose to offer his models black calla lilies with a note describing the collection as personal and emotional, hinting at the significance of this momentous occasion.

During his decade-long tenure at Yves Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello's actions mirrored some of the patterns established by the house's founder. One notable example is the way he approached collaborations and creative ventures. In 2023, Vaccarello launched Saint Laurent Productions, a platform that has produced films featuring high-profile actors like Emilia Pérez, who won two Oscars.

Vaccarello's approach to building his team and fostering relationships with collaborators also echoes Yves Saint Laurent's modus operandi. The designer surrounded himself with a close-knit group of women, including Catherine Deneuve, Loulou de La Falaise, and Betty Catroux. Similarly, Vaccarello has cultivated a 21st-century coterie of Saint Laurent muses, which includes models like Anja Rubik and actresses such as Charlotte Gainsbourg.

The parallels between Vaccarello's approach and Yves Saint Laurent's are not coincidental. In an interview with Vogue in 2018, Vaccarello acknowledged that he knew from the outset that his vision for the brand would be met with both adoration and criticism. He observed that this was a common experience shared by his predecessors, including Hedi Slimane and Stefano Pilati.

Vaccarello's willingness to take risks and challenge expectations is also reminiscent of Yves Saint Laurent's own approach to fashion. The designer who succeeded Tom Ford at the helm of YSL between 2000 and 2004 had previously worked with Gucci Group, which acquired the brand in 1999 for a reported $1 billion.

Since 2013, Yves Saint Laurent has been under the operational control of CEO Francesca Bellettini, who was instrumental in shaping the brand's direction during her tenure.

However, the luxury fashion market as a whole experienced a decline between 9% to 20%, and YSL's own sales suffered due in part to its aggressive repositioning away from wholesale in 2023.

Under Vaccarello's creative leadership, the brand's collections became increasingly distinctive and uncompromising in their interpretation of Yves Saint Laurent's revolutionary template.

In early 2025, Cédric Charbit took over as CEO of YSL, bringing with him his expertise gained from working alongside Demna at Balenciaga as CEO from 2016.

The departure of Anthony Vaccarello from Saint Laurent marks a significant turning point for the iconic fashion house. His successor will now be tasked with meeting ambitious targets that were set during his tenure.

Vaccarello himself has hinted at exploring opportunities beyond fashion, having already expressed his gratitude for the experience of working at Saint Laurent, which he considers the ultimate goal in the industry.