Tom Ford, Diesel, Mugler, R&M Leathers, Dr. Valerie Steele

Fashion shows are known for their dramatic flair, but some recent collections have taken a more provocative approach than usual.

Tom Ford's Spring/Summer 2027 show featured models engaging in suggestive behavior on the catwalk, including one model running her hand over another's breasts as she walked by. The atmosphere was electric, with sound effects simulating a woman reaching orgasm adding to the excitement.

Meanwhile, at Diesel's show, the audience got involved, with more and more people starting to make out with each other halfway through the event. It was like an impromptu flash mob, with the crowd embracing their desires in a way that was both surprising and liberating.

At Mugler, creative director Miguel Castro Freitas set the tone before the first look even appeared on the catwalk. Screens displayed erotic footage, including images of snails mating, sweaty skin, and people kissing. It was a bold move, but one that seemed to pay off in terms of creating a sense of anticipation and desire.

The shows were not just about shock value, however, they also reflected a deeper interest in exploring the human experience through fashion. As Dr. Valerie Steele, director of the Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology, pointed out, designers are looking for ways to create a genuine sense of desire in their audiences.

With the luxury industry facing tough times, with sales declining and people choosing to spend their money elsewhere, fashion designers are searching for new ways to engage their audience and make their products stand out.

London-based R&M Leathers has experienced remarkable growth since 2024, reporting a significant annual increase of approximately 45% in sales.

The brand's focus on made-to-order leather and fetishwear has resonated with customers, and its unique approach to fashion has set it apart from other luxury brands.

Sex positivity is deeply ingrained in R&M Leathers' identity, which was reflected in its SS27 debut at Pornhub-backed London Fashion Week, featuring OnlyFans stars among the cast.

This bold move demonstrated the brand's willingness to push boundaries and challenge traditional notions of fashion.

The luxury industry has been struggling with declining sales and a shift in consumer spending habits.

The fashion industry is embracing a new era of sensuality, driven by the understanding that artificiality can be faked but visceral reactions cannot. Fashion theorist Rian Phin points out that culture has become increasingly influenced by artificial elements, prompting designers to tap into more primal desires.

In recent years, societal attitudes towards bodies have shifted towards greater modesty and restraint, causing individuals to disconnect from their emotional and irrational desires. This trend is particularly evident in the way people present themselves online, where digital fatigue and surveillance paranoia can lead to a sanitized expression of self.

Fashion trends editor Katie Devlin notes that this shift has resulted in a "messiness being erased from human experience, as conservative ideals, gender norms, and dress codes become increasingly prevalent. The influence of AI and digital culture is also contributing to the erosion of individuality and emotional depth.

Mugler's latest collection is a prime example of designers pushing back against this trend by embracing instinctive desires. By exploring the concept of surrendering to primal impulses, designer Castro Freitas drew on philosopher Georges Bataille's ideas about eroticism.

The runway show featured a mix of avant-garde silhouettes and unconventional materials, including feathers, synthetic hair, and translucent organza. These elements were combined in bold, exaggerated shapes that defied traditional notions of beauty. Insect-like décolletés, feline-inspired pantaboots, and cheetah-print effects added to the show's surreal atmosphere.

The imagery accompanying the show was deliberately provocative, with footage of mating snails and kissing bodies displayed alongside the clothes. However, the garments themselves were designed to evoke a sense of sensuality rather than simply showcasing bare skin. The emphasis was on creating an immersive experience that engaged the viewer's senses.

According to designer Castro Freitas, the collection was intended to tap into our primal desires and allow us to surrender to our instincts. He cites philosopher Georges Bataille's ideas about eroticism as a key influence on his design process. By exploring the concept of surrendering to primal impulses, Castro Freitas aimed to create a sense of connection between the wearer and the viewer.

The show's environment was deliberately overwhelming, with 32 screens displaying imagery by Casper Sejersen alongside Björk's voice and Teho Teardo's soundscape. This cacophony of sights and sounds was intended to leave the audience feeling overstimulated, a state that Castro Freitas sees as a reflection of our modern world. We are constantly bombarded with information, he argues, and overstimulation has become the new norm.

Castro Freitas has banned the word sexy from his atelier, preferring instead to focus on the concept of sensuality. He believes that sensuality is a feeling that cannot be reduced to a visual shorthand, whereas sexy can feel impersonal and disconnected from its context. By emphasizing sensuality over sexiness, Castro Freitas aims to create garments that are not just visually striking but also deeply personal and instinctive.

The fashion industry is shifting its focus from showcasing physical perfection to creating garments that evoke a sense of embodiment. This change in perspective is particularly evident on the runway, where designers are now prioritizing comfort and tactility over sheer display.

Designers are using materials like latex to create clothing that engages the senses, rather than just appealing to the eye. For instance, Ferragamo's recent collection featured trench coats made from latex, which not only look sleek but also offer a tactile experience. This approach challenges traditional notions of fashion as purely visual.

The emphasis on tactility and embodiment is also linked to our increasingly screen-mediated culture, where authenticity is constantly called into question. In this context, designers are exploring ways to create garments that can't be faked or manufactured. By incorporating sensory elements like texture and touch, they're creating clothing that feels real and authentic.

This new direction in fashion is not just about aesthetics; it's also about acknowledging the human impulses behind design. Designers are now willing to share their own desires and inspirations, whether it's what excites them or what draws them to a particular material. This shift towards transparency and honesty is helping to create clothing that's not just visually striking but also deeply personal.

Fashion brands are increasingly using provocative imagery and unconventional models to create a sense of intimacy and connection with their audience. This shift towards transparency and honesty is evident in Loewe's collaboration with artist Talia Chetrit, who creates portraits that explore themes of sexuality and identity.

One notable example of this trend is Rosalía's custom Yasmina Atta piece, which she wore during her recent tour. The outfit, featuring a latex bodice, lace bra, studded belts, and tutu, blended ballet and opera influences with a subversive twist, reflecting the music star's edgy style.

The use of unconventional models and imagery is not just about making clothes look sexier or more provocative, but rather about creating an emotional connection with the viewer. According to Devlin, world-building" has become a key strategy for brands looking to engage with their audience on a deeper level.