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Tanya Bush Embarks on Epic Walk to Jersey City Bakery

Tanya Bush is walking from Brooklyn to Bread and Salt in Jersey City, a journey of approximately two hours and seven minutes according to her maps app.

The Ugly but Good Cookie I Walked 40,000 Steps For
Source: Bon Appetit

A pastry chef is embarking on an epic journey to reach a beloved bakery in New Jersey, all for the sake of a humble cookie that she deems underappreciated. Tanya Bush, co-founder of Cake Zine and author of the narrative cookbook Will This Make You Happy, has set out to walk from her current home in Brooklyn to Bread and Salt in Jersey City.

The journey is not just about reaching the bakery, but also about earning her column on long walks to food destinations. As a pastry chef who wakes up before sunrise for work every day, Bush guards her days off fiercely, and this morning was supposed to be one of them. However, she decided to use it as an opportunity to test her endurance.

Bush's outfit is crucial for the urban trek ahead, so she fumbled in the dark for hiking shorts and a tank top - a combination that would prove to be suitable for the scorching heat. She applied sunscreen and laced up her Salomons before setting off. The maps app estimated the journey to take two hours and seven minutes, but Bush has a history of outpacing it.

Bush's route took her through New York City streets, eventually leading her to the Jersey City waterfront where she would catch a ferry to continue her journey. She had initially planned to walk with pastry chef Brooks Headley, but decided to go solo instead. Despite the early start, Bush seemed determined to reach her destination on foot.

As she set off, Bush deducted 17 minutes from the estimated time and began her long journey to Bread and Salt, a bakery that she had admired for years. The underappreciated cookie she was seeking was a major motivation for this walk, and Bush seemed eager to finally try it out.

As I continued my walk across Manhattan, my initial frustration began to fade away when I met Brooks. His warm smile was a welcome respite from the grueling pace I had set for myself. I offered him a hibiscus iced tea, and his reaction was one of genuine delight.

I've been familiar with Brooks' work as an author and restaurateur through my own culinary explorations. The desserts at his restaurant, Superiority Burger, are particularly noteworthy, the griddled malt cakes and date shake being personal favorites.

Our walk down Essex Street towards the lower tip of Manhattan gave me a chance to slow down and appreciate the city's vibrant atmosphere. However, Brooks' frequent stops were starting to make me anxious about meeting our destination. I was determined to reach my goal, but his casual attitude was rubbing off on me.

As we strolled along, Brooks pointed out various landmarks and street art installations, including a tiled sign that read "DON'T BE A DICK in bold letters. We also stopped at an '80s apartment complex diner, where the atmosphere inside seemed to be at odds with the exterior's nostalgic charm. The man behind the counter eyed us warily as we paused to take in the surroundings.

The eclectic mix of old and new architecture was a testament to Brooklyn's unique character. Brooks' insider knowledge added depth to my own observations, making the walk feel less like a chore and more like an enjoyable exploration of the city's hidden gems.

As we continued our walk across Manhattan, I couldn't help but notice how Brooks seemed to be taking it all in, pointing out subtle details that I had missed previously.

His insider knowledge added a new layer of appreciation for the city's infrastructure and architecture, making even mundane sights feel more interesting.

For me, however, repetition was starting to set in - every block looked familiar, and the usual sights and sounds were beginning to blend together.

The rhythm of our footsteps on the pavement became almost hypnotic, as if we were moving through a well-rehearsed dance routine.

As we turned onto a side street, Brooks pointed out the way the light was slanting over the buildings, casting long shadows across the sidewalk.

As we continued our exploration of the bakery, the atmosphere became more relaxed and informal. The kitchen was bustling with activity, with trays of baked goods being pulled out of the oven and packaged for an upcoming event. Among them were cookies made with white wine, a unique ingredient that added an extra layer of depth to the traditional treat.

The bakery's decline was evident in the conversations we overheard. The owner, Rick, mentioned that pastry sales had increased, but customers could only afford one small sweet these days. This trend highlighted the shift in consumer behavior, where people were no longer willing or able to indulge in multiple treats at once.

I couldn't help but think about my own role in perpetuating the treat industrial complex. The constant pursuit of new and exciting baked goods had become a norm, with bakeries opening and closing seemingly overnight. Even Dubai was getting into the act, serving up elaborate chocolate cheesecake brownies on top of frozen yogurt.

As we chatted with Rick, he pulled out a tray of freshly baked cookies from the oven. They were misshapen brown mounds, hardened lumps fused together by some unseen force. Despite their unappealing appearance, they emitted a toasty aroma that was impossible to ignore.

As I continued my journey back to New York, the memory of those unassuming cookies lingered on my mind. Despite their rugged appearance, they had left a lasting impression on me, and I couldn't help but wonder what made them so special.

I found myself pondering the baker's words about feeling a spiritual connection with these cookies. It was clear that he took great pride in his work, even if it didn't always meet conventional standards of beauty. The more I thought about it, the more intriguing it seemed to me.

As I walked through the crowded streets of Brooklyn, my mind kept drifting back to the box of brutti ma buoni. I couldn't help but feel a sense of nostalgia for those roasted hazelnuts and their sweet meringue coating. It was as if they had awakened something in me, making me appreciate the beauty in imperfection.

As I finally arrived home, exhausted from my 40,000-step journey, I couldn't shake off the feeling that these cookies were more than just a treat, they were an experience. And yet, I knew that I still hadn't done them justice, as I struggled to put into words what made them so captivating.

The memory of those brutti ma buoni lingered in my mind long after I had settled back into my routine, and I couldn't help but wonder when, or if, I would ever taste anything like it again.

The desire to innovate and create something new is a driving force behind many people's work, including those in the culinary industry. For some bakers, it's not just about producing high-quality pastries but also about being part of the conversation and creating a buzz around their products.

This sentiment was echoed by a pastry chef who revealed that they are motivated by the desire to make something unique and exciting for their customers. They admitted to being a fiend for the dopamine hit that comes from watching people enjoy their creations, which is what drives them to experiment with new recipes and flavors.

In an effort to recreate a memorable experience, the chef attempted to replicate a traditional Italian cookie called brutti ma buoni, which translates to ugly but good." The cookie's unusual combination of toasted hazelnuts and caramelized meringue was recreated in a new dessert format: a chewy brown butter blondie topped with crunchy hazelnuts and finished with torched meringue.

The end result was a sweet treat that captured the essence of the original cookie, but presented in a more visually appealing way. The pastry chef's efforts to create something innovative and delicious were ultimately successful, leaving them satisfied with their creation.

Facts based on reporting originally published by Bon Appetit.

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