Mumbai, India — 

Burning sandalwood thickens the air in a room that’s so unique solely a vanishingly small quantity of individuals are allowed to enter.

This is an agiary, a Zoroastrian place of worship for India’s Parsi group, the place monks in white robes stoke a sacred flame across the clock and recite historical Avestan prayers that have survived three millennia.

I stand earlier than that fireplace, head coated. Here, I’m reminded of my Zoroastrian ancestors, who as soon as dominated an unlimited Persian empire, however have been compelled from their houses in the course of the Muslim conquest of Persia some 1,300 years in the past.

Parsis are their descendants, a individuals who fled non secular persecution and constructed a life for themselves on India’s west coast.

This sacred room is a spot most Indians won’t ever see – together with my daughter. That’s as a result of she doesn’t get to be a Parsi, not even by delivery.

Rigid gendered guidelines imply solely these born to Parsi fathers are thought of half of the group. Parsi girls who marry outdoors the religion, like me, might discover themselves pushed to the margins, with their kids excluded solely.

It’s a rule that’s rankled many in a group stricken by a demographic decline so extreme that by 2050, specialists predict fewer than 25,000 Parsis could be left in India. For generations, these guidelines have been questioned and debated however not often examined – till now.

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A couple is combating for his or her kid’s place in India’s vanishing Parsi group

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The founding story Parsis inform about their arrival in India dates again centuries. As the legend goes, when Zoroastrian refugees got here ashore in western India, an area Hindu ruler greeted them with a vessel crammed to the brim with milk. His kingdom, the gesture implied, was already full.

The Zoroastrian excessive priest responded by stirring a pinch of sugar into the milk with out spilling a drop. “We will be like sugar,” he’s stated to have replied. “We will dissolve into your land and sweeten it.”

With that promise, got here the ideas that would outline Parsi life in India: they might not proselytize, and they’d marry throughout the religion. What started as a method for coexistence, over centuries, hardened right into a strict resistance to conversion and interfaith marriage.

In 1908 a big court ruling decided that solely these born to Parsi fathers are acknowledged by the state as Parsi, laying the groundwork for greater than a century of exclusion.

Now, a landmark Supreme Court case seeks to interrogate the query: who will get to be Parsi?

The story of the Parsis in India is one of a group a lot smaller in quantity than its affect suggests.

Celebrated figures embody the Tata household (founders of the huge conglomerate that owns Jaguar Land Rover), the nation’s first discipline marshal Sam Manekshaw, and Homi J. Bhabha, the thoughts behind India’s nuclear program.

Outside India, they gave the world Freddie Mercury, born Farrokh Bulsara, the electrifying frontman of British rock band Queen.

A group greater than 100,000 sturdy in India in 1941, the Parsis had dwindled to fewer than 60,000 by 2011, in line with census information. Many stayed in India; others left and fashioned new lives.

I used to be born in Mumbai into an extended, unbroken line of Parsis.

The author Rhea Mogul being initiated into the Zoroastrian faith by a Parsi priest in Mumbai, December, 1999.

Raised within the coronary heart of South Mumbai in a low-rise constructing constructed solely for our group, ours was a quintessential Parsi dwelling. Inside, generations of historical past echoed in century-old, patterned tiles and heavy, dark-wood Victorian heirlooms that anchored every room.

My grandmother, Hilla Banaji, was deeply non secular. She recited her prayers each morning, wore sacred Zoroastrian clothes referred to as the “sudreh and kusti,” and by no means walked out of the entrance door with out first praying to the massive {photograph} of the prophet Zarathustra hanging above the doorway. Once, she inspired me to “find a good Parsi boy” after I grew up.

Rhea Mogul with her grandmother after her navjote ceremony in Mumbai, on December, 1999.
Coconuts symbolize prosperity and are an important element of auspicious Parsi occasions.
1289025 CNN Expansion Headshots - Hong Kong 2022

I moved to Hong Kong, the place I discovered another person – outdoors the religion.

Many Parsis carry a quiet resignation concerning the group’s strict boundaries. People might not at all times agree with them, however most settle for and observe them.

In latest many years, nonetheless, that sentiment has appeared to shift. As a brand new era of Parsi girls construct unbiased lives and households on their own phrases, extra are starting to see these guidelines not as fastened traditions, however as one thing that should change.

Sanaya Dalal additionally grew up a decent Parsi group, about 6 miles (10 kilometers) from mine, within the Dadar Parsi Colony, a storied enclave that stands in stark distinction to the remaining of Mumbai: quiet, languid, and blissfully free of town’s infamous site visitors.

Like me, she married outdoors the religion. Unlike me, she stayed in India, the place her household is usually excluded from group rituals and gatherings.

Dalal, 43, calls herself a “colony kid” – a typical phrase that describes Parsi kids who stay in these unique enclaves. “We’ve grown up here. Our friends are here. Our children are growing up here,” she stated.

Dinu Villa, a Parsi residence built in 1932 in Dadar, Mumbai.
The agiary inside Dadar Parsi Colony, an enclave built exclusively for the community in Mumbai, India.

Dalal’s husband Rishi Kishnani grew up amongst Parsis; his mom was Parsi; nobody had ever informed him he was anything – till the day he walked onto a cricket pitch to bat and was halted by a pointy whistle.

At the time he was 15 and had performed cricket with mates on the Dadar enclave so typically that it felt like an extension of his dwelling.

“No, no, you can’t play,” Kishnani recalled being informed.

“Why not?” he requested.

“Your father is not a Parsi.”

Kishnani’s now 48 however the exclusion nonetheless burns.

And he’s livid the identical is occurring to his son.

The authorized boundaries of who qualifies as a Parsi are comparatively latest for a sect that’s millennia outdated.

The guidelines have been set following a landmark 1908 court case involving French nationwide Suzanne Brière, who had transformed to Zoroastrianism after marrying a high-profile member of the Tata household.

However, when she made plans to be laid to relaxation in Bombay’s Tower of Silence – an open-air Parsi funerary website used for sky burials, the place the lifeless are historically uncovered to vultures – orthodox hardliners objected.

Brière’s husband took the matter to the Bombay High Court, the place judges outlined the Parsi group in strictly patriarchal phrases: solely Parsi males have been capable of move on non secular id, irrespective of who they marry. Converts, in addition to the kids of Parsi moms with non-Parsi fathers, have been excluded. Brière misplaced her battle and is buried within the Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris – additionally an illustrious website, however a continent away from what might have been her desired resting place.

The judgement set the precedent: kids born to Parsi girls who marry outdoors the religion may be forbidden from being initiated into the faith, getting into locations of worship, or qualifying for sure Parsi-only welfare, housing and teaching programs.

Many progressive monks and group members reject these exclusionary guidelines and quietly defy them.

But my own household has felt the brunt of the exclusion after my father’s mother and father – each of whom have been Parsi – divorced and every remarried outdoors. My Christian step-grandmother was barred from attending her father-in-law’s funeral. My Parsi grandmother, who married a Hindu man, was additionally denied entry. Both have been made to sit down outdoors the gates, deeply upsetting the household who mourned inside.

Over the years, a number of Parsi girls in India have mounted authorized challenges to such practices. In 2010, Goolrokh Gupta filed a swimsuit after her interfaith marriage was used to bar her from performing her mother and father’ final rites. The case in the end reached India’s Supreme Court, the place in 2017, a constitutional bench issued an interim order permitting her to enter Zoroastrian locations of worship.

In 2017, creator Prochy Mehta went to court when her intermarried daughter’s kids have been denied entry to a Kolkata fireplace temple.

“(The fire temple) is what keeps the connection with our religion, and you’re cutting off that connection,” stated Mehta, who has authored two books on Parsis. “It becomes very difficult for the child, for the parents, and for the grandparents.”

The combat is ongoing within the Calcutta High Court.

Zoroastrianism’s core tenets – a single God, the cosmic wrestle between good and evil – are broadly believed by historians to have fashioned the theological groundwork for the key Abrahamic religions.

Parsi photographer and filmmaker Sooni Taraporevala has spent years amassing what could also be one of the group’s most intimate archives of on a regular basis life, formed by her entry to the areas that outsiders not often see.

Sitting in her South Mumbai studio, she flips by the pages of a e book she revealed in 2000, crammed with pictures of Parsi titans, humor and rituals.

“Photographs freeze time and survive death,” she stated.

Her e book captures the group’s most private moments, from household life and weddings to sacred non secular rites. It can be a portrait of a minority group with a deep connection to town wherein she grew up.

Indian screenwriter, photographer, and filmmaker, Sooni Taraporevala, during an interview with CNN.

“Mumbai would not have been the same without the Parsis,” she stated. “For most of us, it’s our only home. It’s my only home.”

She doesn’t consider the group ought to “shut people out” and says the Parsis in India could survive if the principles change.

“Once the definition changes, once women who are married to non-Parsis… once their children can be classified as Parsis, then I don’t think we’ll go extinct anymore,” Taraporevala stated.

She generally thinks of writing one other e book.

“If I ever did reprint, or if I ever did another edition of my book,” she stated, “I would add photographs of Parsis, inter-communal couples.”

For years, Dalal took her son to the Dadar Parsi Gymkhana, a non-public members’ membership. As a non-member, her husband Kishnani’s entry was restricted to 4 occasions a month.

Dalal stated their son performed there day by day along with his mates, taking benefit of a membership coverage that permits kids underneath 5 to enter and not using a membership. But the second he turned 5 years outdated, the principles modified. When Dalal tried to register him, he was turned away.

In their view, he was not Parsi.

NCS is looking the boy Aaresh for privateness causes.

After Aaresh was denied entry to the clubhouse, the household started to restrict their visits. Now they prepare to satisfy mates on “neutral” floor – somebody’s dwelling, a backyard, or one other location.

“He was a five-year-old child who wanted to play with his friends at the playground, and I was met with stiff opposition. They did not want it. They don’t want the rules to change. Parsi means Parsi,” Dalal informed me.

In 2021, she and her husband determined to problem the rule that had lengthy plagued their group by taking the matter to India’s Supreme Court. After years of ready, the case could lastly be heard within the coming months.

Sanaya stated they’re combating for his “right to worship, the right to inherit property, the right to have a social life and live with dignity.”

“I am not ready to accept the status quo anymore,” she added, noting that discrimination is “not rooted in religion.”

The Dadar Parsi Colony Gymkhana declined to remark as a result of the matter is earlier than the courts.

At the Dadar Athornan Institute, a boarding seminary for Zoroastrian boys, Ramiyar Karanjia gathers along with his college students to coach the religion’s subsequent era of clergy. Wearing a standard white gown, he stands in entrance of the century-old faculty, the place he studied as a toddler.

“Being a Parsi is one of the most ancient legacies that one can carry,” he stated. “And that itself is something to be very proud of.”

Ramiyar Karanjia prays inside a hall at the Dadar Anthornan Institute in Mumbai, Maharashtra, February, 2026.
Students at the Dadar Anthornan Institute in Mumbai, Maharashtra, February, 2026.
The sacred Zoroastrian prayers.

Parsi priesthood is hereditary, that means all of the boys right here have been born into priestly households. Karanjia sees a future in these college students and believes the inhabitants decline is “not so alarming that we have to take steps which are detrimental to the very existence of this community.”

“We have learned that the only people that have survived are in India, who have practiced and managed exclusivity. That is marrying within the fold, within the community as far as possible,” he stated.

Karanjia informed me with a well mannered smile that he and different monks like him “understand the circumstances” of the individuals like me, who’ve married outdoors.

“We have sympathy for them, not in the sense of negative sympathy, but that their circumstances may force them,” he stated. “But we have to also see the safeguarding and existence of our religion and community… we have to see what is more important… personal interest or the interest of the community at large.”

Many in the neighborhood I’ve spoken with have hoped that opening the doorways to the kids of Parsi moms would possibly assist gradual and even reverse the demographic decline. Yet analysis exhibits the actual affect rests with girls themselves – and that change will solely come if extra infants are born throughout the group.

One of essentially the most detailed research of the Parsi inhabitants, performed in 2011, discovered that recognizing the kids of intermarried girls would make solely a “negligible” distinction in reversing the decline – as a result of the Parsi birthrate is so low.

After settling alongside India’s west coast, many Parsis constructed their lives as retailers in bustling ports. Their prosperity grew even additional with the arrival of the British within the seventeenth century, opening doorways that noticed them attain better gender equality than many different girls in patriarchal India.

With an schooling and careers, many Parsi girls are inclined to marry later in life – or generally in no way – and sometimes have fewer kids.

Combined with important migration abroad, this has caused a steep decline in India’s Parsi group. So a lot so that, even because the nation grapples with overpopulation, the federal government has taken the weird step of encouraging Parsis to develop their households.

Shahnaaz Dalal, no relation to Sanaya Dalal, lives on the bottom ground of a quaint, heritage-style cottage, with her Parsi husband, Rohinton, in-laws and two daughters in one other Parsi enclave in northern Mumbai.

The couple had their second child late final 12 months, with help from a program launched by the federal government in 2013 to spice up Parsi numbers.

Under the scheme, Parsi households who earn under a sure threshold can obtain monetary help for fertility remedy and childcare. So far, this system has facilitated the births of about 490 kids in 12 years, in line with authorities figures.

Dalal will get emotional as she thinks concerning the moms this system has helped. “When we see a baby after five years, 10 years… that’s happiness,” she stated.

She pauses after I ask her whether or not Parsi girls who marry out are eligible to obtain the help.

“No,” she says with a sympathetic smile.

Sanaya Dalal and Kishnani say that Aaresh, now 12, is unaware of the politics surrounding his own bloodline.

His mother and father haven’t informed him why they don’t go to the clubhouse – and he is aware of nothing of the court case.

“We have brought him up within the faith,” Dalal stated. “And he doesn’t know that he’s discriminated against.”

They present me images from his Navjote, a non secular initiation ceremony, Rishi carrying a “dagli,” a standard long-sleeved white garment, with a knee-length coat, and Sanaya wearing a Parsi sari.

When they first determined to problem the Supreme Court, their story made headlines throughout India.

Many supported their battle, praising them for taking the step. Some expressed their disapproval.

In the room subsequent door, Aaresh performs video video games along with his buddy, like every other 12-year-old boy, taking a break from his homework and learning for a French examination, and oblivious to how his mother and father’ combat could change his life and people of others like him.

His mother and father know that it’d take years earlier than their case is given its closing listening to.

Sanaya and her husband react during their son’s navjote ceremony in Mumbai.

“So many people told me that the Indian judicial system is going to take 10 years, 15 years. It might take 50,” Kishnani stated. “But I will do it, because this has to change.”

I don’t know what the long run holds for our small Parsi group.

Back on the agiary the place I stand, the sacred flame is sustained by ritual and self-discipline. But past these consecrated partitions, continuity might rely as a lot on motion as religion.

We like to inform the story of how our ancestors got here to this nation not as conquerors, and promised to dissolve into it gently. It’s a narrative we repeat as a result of it gives a imaginative and prescient that is rooted in inclusion.

And but, the query now earlier than India’s high court is that this: what stays of such a promise when the group’s own girls and their kids are left standing outdoors?



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