Geneva — 

While understanding what women want in a timepiece is likely to be much less philosophical than asking what they want from life or love, any watch trade finsider will let you know that the reply is (virtually) as complicated.

This week’s Watches & Wonders showcase in Geneva definitely proved that there are simply as many contrasting ideologies and competing priorities in 2026. There are the petite and punchy items that really feel good for celebration dressing — fueled by the development for smaller dials and bangle bracelets — and there are additionally ultra-engineered unisex improvements, difficult the ‘shrink and pink’ accusations nonetheless leveled at huge manufacturers which have traditionally put the concentrate on males’s timepieces.

In latest years, the trade has been pressured to dramatically rethink the way it markets to women. Here are a few of my high picks from the 2026 truthful, which present that nowadays, a “ladies” watch is within the eye of the beholder.

Bulgari, Octo Finissimo 37

(*5*)

The new Octo Finissimo is thinner than ever.

When Bulgari first unveiled its sci-fi worthy Octo Finissimo timepiece in 2014, watch collectors and trade insiders alike have been wowed by its highly effective mechanics and ultra-thin silhouette. With its case measuring simply 5mm deep, and a motion simply 1.95mm thick, this was a watch that defied all pre-existing engineering and creativeness. The watch was, nevertheless, 40mm in diameter, which tends to be on the big aspect for many women’s wrists. Now, for 2026, the maison has unveiled its scaled down sister — the Octo Finissimo 37 — with the proper dial measurement, 37mm, to go well with a slender-sized wrist. Flaunting the identical architecturally-inspired curves, edges and corners that emulate Bulgari’s house metropolis of Rome, the most recent iteration of the Octo Finissimo is powered by a brand new self-winding motion, niftily lowered by 20% in quantity to guarantee it suits the brand new case measurement. Featherlight, crafted in both titanium or 18-karat yellow gold, with three-day energy reserve, this can be a skinny but refined timepiece for the girl who needs her watch wardrobe to exude that “if you know, you know” vitality.

Cartier, Baignoire

Two new versions of the Cartier Baignoire exhibited at

Cartier gave its Baignoire timepiece a significant glow up in 2023, and regardless of unveiling it alongside a large repertoire of technically avant-garde creations, this smooth little celebration watch stole the present that 12 months. Ever since, stylists, influencers and A-listers alike have been charmed by its easy silhouette and bangle-style tackle timekeeping. For 2026, it has been given one other new look — this time toughened up with stylish prickles — with one of many two variations created from up-turned diamonds. The success of the Baignoire speaks to the section of the market that wishes an ultra-precious jewelry-inspired design to slip right into a pre-existing stack of bangles and bracelets, whereas nonetheless holding monitor of time. This week’s novelties recommended that fully-stacked wrist styling reveals no signal of abating, with many extra maisons providing bangle or chain bracelet designs.

Van Cleef & Arpels, Heure d’Ici & Heure d’Ailleurs

The timepiece displays two time zones.

Ask most women who personal a Van Cleef & Arpels effective timepiece what adorns its dial, and they will reel off a roster of magical motifs — ballerinas, fairies, fauna and flora are normally in abundance. But the newly unveiled Heure d’Ici & Heure d’Ailleurs timepiece, is minimal compared, although none the much less elegant. Priced at $48,000 — the superbly sized 38mm watch boasts a cognac-hued enamel dial that evokes Chanel’s cult Rouge Noir shade of nail polish. Spoiler — it’s seemingly to grow to be simply as extremely coveted. This dual-time zone watch can present the native time and the time zone of, say, a beloved one, suddenly — with the fragile script in French on the dial translating to “the time here, and the time elsewhere.”

Rolex, Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40

The model boasts a striking spring green dial.

Rolex hasn’t simply unveiled a brand new iteration of one in all its best-loved timepieces for 2026, however has crafted it in a complete new treasured steel alloy. Called Jubilee Gold, the watch was conceived and developed within the maison’s Swiss workshop and a part of a batch of recent releases coinciding with the a hundredth anniversary celebration of the groundbreaking Oyster mannequin. This is a pleasant new tackle yellow-gold from the watchmaking mega model that feels extra tender than its basic hue, with heat undertones of gray and delicate pink. The Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 40, priced at $62,700, is the primary to be dressed up within the new gold tone, and has been bestowed with an attention grabbing spring inexperienced aventurine dial to intensify its hue, full with a touch of baguette lower diamonds. If you’ve gotten ever discovered your self hovering between being a rose-gold lady or a yellow-gold lady via and via, the internal turmoil ends now — it’s Jubilee Gold all the best way.

MARLI New York, MARLI Timepieces L35

A watch that debuted outside the fair, but nonetheless made a splash in Geneva.

Unveiled on the model’s boutique within the coronary heart of Geneva to coincide with the Watches & Wonders truthful, MARLI New York has offered its first foray into watchmaking with a group that was 5 years within the making. Inspired by a theme of “Motion and Measure,” every watch design was conceived to seize New York’s insistence to by no means stand nonetheless, balanced with the world of Swiss watchmaking, the place precision, calm and readability are all the things. Crafted in Switzerland and powered by a self-winding Swiss Automatic motion, these watches — from $9,000 to $28,600 — have grow to be recognized for his or her distinct dials, which incorporate the maison’s signature pyramid motif. Meticulously carving mother-of-pearl on 5 completely different axis, every dial is a sequence of iridescent, completely polished pyramids, amplifying the shine of every 18-karat rose-gold or titanium case, obtainable with or with out diamonds upon the bezel. This was the shock contender of the week, producing loads of buzz amongst trade insiders on the present.



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