On a sunny afternoon in the Dordogne Valley, Debra and Eric Stillwell stroll alongside a cobblestone avenue, watching autumn leaves tumble to the bottom.
Later they’ll cease at one of many open-air markets discovered in southwest France’s medieval cities, maybe plan a visit to Bordeaux to go to Citi de la Vin — Debra’s favourite museum — or wander by the area’s many castles.
It’s a life far faraway from the longer term that after awaited them in California, the place they spent three many years earlier than relocating to France 5 years in the past.
“I figured it out,” says Debra, 67. “If we stayed where we were, I would probably have had to work until I was 85.”
The Stillwells — who met at a “Star Trek” conference in 1995 and married a 12 months later — had lengthy dreamed of retiring in Europe. Debra’s mom had retired early and referred to as it “the best thing she ever did.” But in Los Angeles, the numbers didn’t add up.
“The problem was, when we were living in Los Angeles, we couldn’t afford to retire early and still pay off the mortgage and pay off all of the debts,” says Eric, 62, who as soon as labored as a script coordinator for “Star Trek: The Next Generation,” earlier than becoming a member of Disney.
Both diabetic, in addition they apprehensive in regards to the rising value of American well being care. “At the time… it would have cost us more than $500 a month each for medical insurance,” says Debra. “I think it’s more expensive now.”
They initially thought of transferring to Italy, however discovered themselves more and more drawn to France. Debra had studied French whereas rising up in Montreal, and one in all Eric’s great-grandfathers had emigrated from France to the United States in the nineteenth century.
A 2013 wine cruise, which stopped in Bordeaux, clinched it. The couple spent the night time in Saint-Émilion, shut to the border of southwest France’s Dordogne area, and fell in love with the world.
“We decided this is where we wanted to live,” Eric says. The medieval cities, castles and landscapes had been all enthralling, he provides.
Eric had been let go from his Disney job across the time Debra retired from her job as a medical heart schooling director, so the couple offered their California residence at revenue, paid off their mortgage and bank cards, and left debt-free.
They purchased a chalet-style home in the Résidence Souillac Golf & Country Club — a leisure group with an 18-hole golf course, tennis courts and swimming swimming pools — in the Dordogne Valley’s Lachapelle-Auzac space, for about 70,000 euros, or roughly $81,000.
“In the beginning, we had the romantic notion of living in a stone cottage with blue shutters, the typical French house,” says Eric. Then they got here throughout the chalet home. Neither Eric nor Debra play golf, however they had been gained over by the very fact the membership rents out properties on behalf of homeowners if they’re absent, permitting them to go touring. “It was the perfect choice for us.”
They moved in 2020 and rapidly settled into the world. Their neighbors embody British, Dutch, French and Irish households — many part-time residents — who helped ease the transition.
“We have a built-in community here that’s really great,” says Eric. “Our French neighbors are wonderful. People invite each other to dinner all the time.”
They nonetheless struggled with some changes. French restaurant opening occasions left them scrambling for lunch after 1:45pm. Since his US driving licence was solely legitimate for his or her first 12 months, Eric spent six months making ready for the French driving take a look at, which he handed. Debra has no intention of making an attempt.
The “roads are too narrow here for me,” she says.
Within three months of residing in France, the Stillwells had been in a position to entry France’s well being care system. They now pay no premiums and few associated prices.
“We were lucky,” says Debra. “There’s a lot of healthcare deserts in different areas. But in this tiny town there’s probably six primary care medicine doctors.”
They’re removed from fluent in French, however say they’re in a position to muddle by. “My words are all mixed up,” says Debra. But she speaks “enough for them to understand what I’m trying to say 99% of the time, and I understand them most of the time.”
Eric says he can learn fundamental French, however struggles with dialog. “It’s just been very difficult for me to figure out how to hear the French accent,” he says.
Both maintain long-stay visas, which allow non-EU nationals to stay in France for over 90 days, and can be renewed annually. Debra initially hoped to apply for French citizenship, however a current rule change has disqualified retirees incomes most of their earnings from overseas.
The Stillwells dwell totally on Social Security, however discover their cash stretches far additional in France than it ever would have in the United States. Utilities and groceries are cheaper, journey is less complicated and cultural alternatives are plentiful.
“Everybody thinks that Americans living in France are all rich, and that’s not true,” says Eric. “Our house cost 70,000 euros… We aren’t rich.”
Their retirement is full of journey. They have toured France, visiting the Loire Valley, the Riviera shoreline, and the Burgundy and Chablis wine areas; attended “Star Trek” conventions in London, Rome, Luxembourg and Zagreb. They even loved a “Star Trek”-themed cruise to Iceland.
One of their favourite actions is an annual December journey to Paris, the place they wander round Christmas markets and go to the big tree beneath the glass dome of the Galeries Lafayette division retailer. Last 12 months, they visited 20 international locations, launched into three cruises and even attended a nephew’s marriage ceremony in South Korea.
Asked what their retirement would’ve appeared like had they stayed in the US, Debra is unequivocal. “Absolutely broke.”
The couple have gone again to the US just a few occasions for household commitments, however say they don’t have any need to abandon their new life. “Under the current climate, I would not go back,” says Eric. “But I don’t want to dwell on that, because we love France.”
Debra provides that she hopes they’ll be in a position to proceed to benefit from the nation for years to come.
“I lived for 30 years in Canada,” she says. “I lived for 32 years in the States, and my goal is to live another 30 years in France.”