Dish to order: xiên heo nuóng mè
A current Bib Gourmand award could have drawn extra consideration to this small Vietnamese restaurant, however residents of South East London have been reserving tables out since the spot opened in summer season 2025. Rye Lane is a treasure trove of eateries, with delicacies from throughout the world accessible to hungry locals, so it takes quite a bit to face out. The issue that at all times works? Fun. And Lai Rai gives frivolity in spades, from the red-and-white-striped awning on the exterior to the yellow partitions and crimson LED strip lighting inside. Stepping inside feels a bit of like moving into a movie set, or a special world (it makes full sense that the restaurant’s neighbour is Four Quarters, an arcade bar open till the early hours) and visitors shall be led to one in all a handful of small tables on the floor ground or upstairs, earlier than being introduced with a number of menus that includes cocktails, small plates and huge plates. The very first thing you’ll discover about the meals is that it’s not typical of what you would possibly discover in most Vietnamese restaurants in London, regardless of being run by the similar staff as close by Bánh Bánh; you received’t discover hearty bowls of pho, for instance. Instead, anticipate choạ cổm – prawn lollipops with a sugarcane stick made for chewing on earlier than your subsequent dish arrives – or xiên heo nuóng mè – grilled pork neck skewer with lemongrass, completely charred for a chunk that’s succulent and candy. In all honesty, we may have made a meal purely from starters, however I’m glad we didn’t miss out on the hefty bowl of mussels in a creamy coconut broth or the fried coconut-and-mung-bean rice parcels, which have been as distinctive and glutinous as they sound.
Special point out ought to go to the cocktail record, which is simply too good to withstand, even on a weeknight. The cà phê martini brings a robust hit of Vietnamese espresso – splendid after an extended day, truly – however the bui dòi was made for many who love a savoury sip, with olive leaf gin, shio koji, fino sherry, basil eau de vie, dry vermouth and fried rice paper. Visit throughout the day, and also you’ll discover that the restaurant takes on extra of a restaurant vibe. There is, after all, nice Vietnamese espresso, plus bánh mì made with freshly baked bread. For locals, it’s a scrumptious new spot to pop out and in of, nevertheless it’s price travelling (sure, even from the different aspect of London) to expertise this brilliant and daring new restaurant that’s captured Peckham’s spirit. Abigail Malbon
Address: Lai Rai, 81 Rye Lane, London SE15 4TP
Price: ££
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Legado
Shoreditch, London