Condé Nast Traveler


With solely eight suites, the Hotel Dé Ricci appears like a non-public house proper off certainly one of my favourite streets in Rome, Via di Monserrato; it’s a road that hasn’t been commercialized and nonetheless retains the Roman allure I really like. Speaking of allure, the courtyard at Hotel Locarno has been a second house for me. It’s a real Roman crossroads the place locals and friends reunite for aperitivo; the rooms in the primary historic constructing nonetheless seize the Sixties glamour of when it served as a lounge for the likes of Fellini, Rossellini, and Mastroianni.

If you need to really feel such as you actually stay in Rome, the SuperAttico Monserrato is an actual gem on Via di Monserrato. This superbly designed penthouse is owned and tastefully curated by Daria Reina and Andrea Ferolla, the duo behind the cult-favorite boutique Chez Dédé. For an equally laidback vibe, The Hoxton is ready in the Parioli district, it permits you to be primarily based in a neighborhood that also belongs to the locals, but it’s shut sufficient to attain the historic middle with a gorgeous stroll via Villa Borghese.

For a spa you may by no means need to depart, head to the Six Senses. I’m often not one for spas (too excessive power to chill), however after 20,000 steps via Rome, their signature holistic therapeutic massage is the one factor that actually brings you again to life. And over at Vuotopieno, the flats are curated areas designed for multidisciplinary change, the place vacationers stay alongside site-specific works left behind by visiting artists.


Day 1: Sights alongside the Tiber River

Breakfast spot: Carbs and low at Forno Campo de’ Fiori

Forno Campo de’ Fiori

The easy pizza by the slice at Forno Campo de’ Fiori—a bustling bakery in a crowded central piazza—is a factor of magnificence. The employees can slice small items for you so you may strive a couple of topping; do not miss pizza rossa (flatbread brushed with tomato sauce), pizza bianca (flatbread seasoned with salt and olive oil), and fior di zucca (zucchini flower, anchovy, and mozzarella). Note that the service is not significantly pleased, useful, or welcoming, however who has time for pleasantries once you’re slammed all day?

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Morning exercise: Golden souvenirs

Lunch spot: Unfussy Italian fare

Afternoon exercise: A stroll via Aventino

Basilica di Santa Sabina

A peaceable stroll away from the crowds that takes you previous Circo Massimo, the Rose Garden, and the Liberty-style villas of the Aventino. Be positive to cease at Santa Sabina, a Fifth-century basilica that continues to be one of the vital completely preserved early Christian church buildings in existence.

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Dinner: A veggie-heavy feast

Piatto Romano

The menu at Piatto Romano is probably not fancy, nevertheless it nails all of the classics, serving gnocchi on Thursdays—when it’s historically eaten in Rome—and fish dishes on Fridays. The seafood is great, from the salt cod cooked with dried fruits and onions—a should—to the frittura mixture of fried prawns and calamari, when it is on the menu. But the star is the extra meaty, milk-fed pajata: fats pasta tubes in an intestine-based sauce. There’s additionally a formidable vary of aspect dishes made with seasonal greens. Desserts are easy however good: market-fresh strawberries sprinkled with sugar or slices of still-warm ricotta cake.

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Evening exercise: A nightcap (or three)

Enoteca L’antidoto

From the off, it’s clear that Enotica L’antidoto could be very cool. The warmly-lit inside is lined with brick arches and uncovered cement partitions, all coated by the unique beam roof. It’s precisely the type of place you go for a bottle or two of natural pure wines with pals, alongside a artistic menu of small plates. This is a neighborhood crowd who stay in and round Trastevere; trend sorts discussing their day over dinner; a pair in yoga outfits catching up over a bottle of natural crimson from Puglia, mats tucked away in the nook. The crew run month-to-month chef residencies, so there’s at all times somebody new developing with a artistic new menu. Dishes are made to pair with the wines: there are figs wrapped in delicate slices of lard and savory tarts with olives fennel and inexperienced beans. On our go to it was the very un-Italian fried egg sandwich that had everybody speaking, pressed because it was between two slices of toasted sourdough with rocket and anchovies. Even should you’re not ordering meals, there’s a bag of complimentary bread and cultured, salted butter to go together with your wine.

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Day 2: Centro Storico (and Beyond)

Breakfast spot: Baked items at Regoli

Morning exercise: A dose of up to date artwork

FOROF

An archaeological web site inside Trajan’s Forum reworked into an area for up to date artwork, the place 2nd-century constructions interact in a continuing, site-specific dialogue with the current.

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Lunch spot: Classic Roman dishes

Afternoon exercise: Gelato and Caravaggios

Chiesa di San Luigi dei Francesi

Even if not an enormous artwork buff, take the 5 minutes to wander to the Contarelli chapel inside this small catholic church which is only a quick stroll from the Pantheon. It’s house to three Caravaggio work which showoff the maestro’s command of chiaroscuro which might all be seen without cost and away from the crowds that mob his works contained in the museums.

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Dinner: A parade of seafood

Evening exercise: Natural wine amongst locals

La Latteria

An oasis for pure wines from small producers—that is very native and legit even, in the midst of Trastevere’s rising “Disneyfication.”

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Day 3: A Day Trip to Campagnano Romano

Breakfast spot: Pastries and road-trip bread

Santi Sebastiano e Valentino

This neighborhood bakery is a delight to linger in (plus, they have fantastic bread), and plan a day trip out of the city. The walk here is also a joyous way to start the morning: You can easily get to this neighborhood on foot from the center of town by walking across Villa Borghese.

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Morning exercise: A dip in a volcanic lake

Bracciano Lake

A volcanic lake with remarkably clear water, perfect for a morning swim before exploring the surrounding towns—specifically Trevignano for a stroll (possibly a swim) along the shore and Bracciano to visit the Castello Orsini-Odescalchi.

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Lunch spot: Farm-to-table favorites

Osteria Iotto

Worth the detour to Campagnano Romano, this family-run spot features an ever-evolving menu sourced almost entirely from their on-site farm; if available, the tacos alla picchiapò are a must.

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Afternoon exercise: A masterclass in Italian Art Deco

Casa Molle Morpurgo

Head back to Rome for a true hidden gem that only recently opened for private tours—this residence is an untouched masterpiece of Italian Art Deco. I love the green living room, with drapery by Fides Testi, engraved mirrors by Pietro Chiesa, and corals by Martinuzzi.

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Dinner: Offal at Trecca

Trecca – Roma

It can be easy for modern osterias to follow a distinct design pattern that feels too modern and out of place in a historic city like Rome. Trecca is just a few years old but manages to feel exactly like a young Roman restaurant should: spacious and inviting. There’s a brown-tiled checkered floor, pendant lighting and marble-topped tables–with an ancient Roman terracotta sink thrown in, for good measure. The short, well-thought-out menu is full of supremely delicious creations. If off-cuts make you queasy, you needn’t worry: the pastas keep mostly to tradition (carbonara, amatriciana), but the taglioni pasta with chicken livers and butter is the standout. But, quite frankly, Trecca isn’t where you go to play it safe. They do those off-cuts far too well. If you’re going to try them, do it here–there’s a section on the menu for ‘refined palates’ (aka the brave ones). Or don’t bother with the menu, ask the waiter for his daily recommendations instead. You won’t be disappointed.

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Evening exercise: Nightcaps at La Mescita

La Mescita

To wind down your trip, grab a seat at this bar, which is usually filled with locals. Ask your server for their opinion on the natural wines, or go for a low-key aperitivo.

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