Gemini? Scorpio? Sagittarius? What is your moon signal? And your solar? These aren’t, it appears, trivial questions for Gen Z. For a rising quantity, an astrological profile has turn out to be a approach to specific individuality in a era that locations specific worth on self-definition.
“It has become increasingly common for (social media) users to reference their sign — Aries, Capricorn and the like — in their bios and content, allowing it to shape perception and a simple, powerful way to define oneself,” stated Laurent François, a inventive guide and writer of the ebook and Substack “Alive in Social Media.”
Astrology has turn out to be “a significant part of digital culture,” he added, pointing to the tens of millions of screenshots customers shared from the horoscope app Co-Star and the rise of TikTok’s #witchtok neighborhood, which has generated greater than 6 million movies exploring spirituality, astrology and mysticism.
And, as is usually the case, developments in the digital world intertwine with the bodily one. In this occasion: a zodiac-themed jewelry revival.
Luxury Parisian jeweler Van Cleef & Arpels could also be greatest identified for its signature Alhambra motif of a four-leaf clover, but it surely has additionally more and more constructed a devoted following for Zodiaque: a assortment of zodiac-themed medals, pendants and bracelets that interpret the twelve astrological indicators. In what is maybe a testomony to their rising reputation, it’s now being redesigned and relaunched this 12 months at a extra accessible worth level in a bid to draw a new era of followers.
The home first started sketching zodiac symbols as early as 1906, earlier than unveiling a fully-fledged astrological assortment in the Nineteen Fifties — a line that reached peak reputation in the Nineteen Seventies. A primary relaunch in 2021, that includes new variations set with semi-precious stones akin to malachite, turquoise and obsidian and priced at round £20,900 ($23,500), proved so profitable that 5 years later it prompted the maison to broaden the providing as soon as once more. The newest iteration options the designs on yellow- and white-gold medallions, obtainable as bracelets and necklaces and styled on each women and men, with costs ranging from £2,290 ($2,740).
The launch underscores the rising attraction of zodiac motifs in jewelry. Astrological, zodiac and celestial items are among the many strongest-performing designs of the high quality jewelry class at luxurious retailer Mytheresa, based on its chief shopping for and group style ventures officer Tiffany Hsu. And high quality jewelry is at present rising on the platform at triple-digit charges, stated Hsu, attributing the momentum to the intimacy and styling versatility of such items. They “allow customers to express themselves, while still maintaining a classic, sophisticated look,” she stated.
Dominic Jones, inventive director of sustainable luxurious jewelry model 886 by Britain’s Royal Mint, has seen related success. The jewelry model’s Zodiac assortment, launched in 2024, shortly turned its second bestselling line after the coin-inspired Tutamen assortment. Similarly, on the French jewelry home Goossens, zodiac symbols included into its spherical, organic-shaped Astro assortment, launched in 2020, ranks amongst its high 5 designs throughout Europe and Asia.
A resurgence amongst Gen Z and Millennials
The rising reputation of zodiac jewelry displays youthful generations’, and notably Gen Z’s, broader curiosity in astrology and symbolism, as François suggests. Likewise, Millennial and Gen Z jewelry designers have embraced the shift and are increasing their supply of astrology-themed jewels.
Having grown up in Japan with Spanish-Filipino heritage, George Inaki, founding father of the New York-based jewelry model Milamore, was acquainted with horoscopes and fortune tellers and their rising affect on his Gen Z-generation, but was nonetheless struck by the prominence of astrology in the West.
“When I moved to the United States, people would often ask for my zodiac sign or make comments such as, ‘No wonder he’s a Libra,’ or ‘she’s a real Scorpio,’” he stated. Those conversations prompted him to include zodiac themes shortly after launching the model in 2019.
While Milamore’s core enterprise is its signature Kintsugi assortment — impressed by the Japanese artwork of repairing damaged ceramics with gold — zodiac items have additionally proved common, notably amongst sure indicators, based on Inaki. “It’s based on personality; it’s not that all twelve signs sell equally, but that certain characters are more inclined toward astrology,” he stated, citing Pisces, Virgo, Gemini, Libra and Scorpio purchasers as being extra prone.
Global symbolism and inspiration
Tania Nawbar and Dima Nawbar, inventive administrators of L’Atelier Nawbar, a fourth-generation jewelry firm in Beirut, observe that rising curiosity in the zodiac isn’t solely coming from the West. “We also see strong interest across the Middle East and Asia,” they informed NCS. “In Lebanon and across the Arab world, symbolism and zodiac signs are deeply embedded in everyday culture, so people naturally feel close to these motifs as expressions of identity, protection and continuity across generations.” The symbolism in their designs has expanded past the horoscope and embrace Ayatul Kursi (The Throne Verse from the Quran), a Virgin Mary ring, pomegranate motifs for prosperity, Hamsa fingers for safety, the evil eye to thrust back negativity, and the elephant as a image of fine fortune.
In India, astrology is carefully intertwined with native deities and religious apply. The Indian designer Sabyasachi’s excessive jewelry assortment, for instance, options bespoke items such because the Arya Ring. Crafted in 18k gold and that includes brilliant-cut diamonds and 9 multicolored gems, it’s impressed by the Navaratna — that means “nine gems” in Sanskrit, every believed to have powers in Vedic astrology.
In Vedic astrology, stones are worn for their energetic connection to the wearer somewhat than as symbols alone — a philosophy the London-based jeweler Karina Choudhrie has included into her personal creations. Both the Reflection’s Locket and the Message in a Bottle sautoir are adorned with a ruby or diamond set on either side, permitting a gemstone to all the time contact the pores and skin and relaxation near the center, whereas the outer face stays seen to the world.
Meanwhile Christine Cheng, founding father of the US-based vintage jewelry supplier Evocatrice, has additionally seen a “growing demand from clients for pieces inspired by both Western and Chinese horoscopes” – chosen for how carefully they replicate their character. As final 12 months’s Chinese zodiac, the Snake, sparked a craze amongst collectors, now Cheng has been busy sourcing items that includes the Fire Horse, this 12 months’s Chinese zodiac signal.
For Cheng, the revival of zodiac-themed jewelry speaks not solely to self-expression, spirituality, and id, but in addition to a want for a private emblem of distinction. “Not everyone has a family crest,” she stated, “but everyone has a birthday — and therefore a zodiac sign.”