Why guide?
For a romantic weekend within the French countryside spent consuming in breathtakingly revamped ruins, sipping cognac by the hearth, and rowing The Notebook-style down a nonetheless lake at nightfall.
Set the scene
There’s one thing about travelling to a spot you’ve seen numerous footage of, and Abbaye des Vaux de Cernay is one such place. What was as soon as an outdated monastery is now an simple Instagram favorite, however, I used to be happy to be taught, that is neither on the expense of the sprawling resort’s really feel nor its glorious service. Driving in the direction of the fort on the morning of our arrival felt like the start of a interval drama, and upon strolling by these grand doorways as soon as dwelling to notable abbots, I used to be immediately awed by how tastefully the historic large has been preserved. The interiors have undeniably received that of-the-moment look, however there’s a serene words-collide really feel beneath these rooms’ vaulted ceilings: you possibly can virtually hear Maurice Chevalier buzzing from the identical salon that now performs a contemporary lounge combine, the place visitors in fits, clothes and hoodies all unwind. Despite the renos that make every room magazine-worthy, there’s nonetheless a reasonably haunting really feel right here at night time if you end up in an remoted hallway, the place Beauty and the Beast-style candlesticks sit within the firm of outdated books, vintage decanter trolleys, and countless objects from the fort’s former period sourced from native brocantes.
The backstory
It’s owned by Paris Society’s whose origins are rooted within the nightlife scene, however you’d assume the group’s president Laurent de Gourcuff – who invested €60 million to renovate the twelfth century abbey in 2019 – has been revamping relics his entire life. Founded in 1147 as a Cistercian abbey and deserted after the French Revolution, the fort was revived within the late nineteenth century by Baroness Charlotte de Rothschild as a (informal) summerhouse, which led to her and her grandson Henri remodeling all the things from its monastic corridors to its neogothic studying rooms. The pair are largely answerable for preserving the unique church’s ruins, which you’ll roam round with a morning espresso, admiring crumbling arches and vacant oculus home windows as stunning when flooded with mild as they’re when shrouded by fog. The property would later grow to be expropriated by the Vichy authorities within the Second World War, then bought at public sale to industrialist Félix Amiot earlier than being resold as a resort within the late 80s. Since 1926 it’s been labeled as a historic monument, and immediately Paris Society’s considerate renovation permits the place to flourish as each a historic web site and luxurious resort.
The rooms
The fort is a labyrinth of cathedral-like corridors, grand salons and gothic fireplaces – complemented with curiosities starting from a piano topped with frayed Chopin pages, writing desks scattered with vintage quills and early editions of the Larousse, pastel work and an organ. The bedrooms vary from cosy to sprawling, and may be booked both in the principle abbey or within the property’s former stables, that are additionally dwelling to the spa. While every room has a character of its personal, you possibly can anticipate toile de jouy wallpaper, preserved wooden panelling, and complicated tapestries from Maison Dior’s creative director Cordélia de Castellane all through. Staying right here appears like being tucked away in your individual rabbit gap – albeit a really grand one. Many of the room’s doorways are sufficiently old to require bodily keys (that are certainly one of reception’s most compelling ornamental parts).
Food and drink
Buffet-style breakfast right here begins on the abbey’s Réfectoire des Moines, a Great Hall equal which can also be the place you’ll wander over for the 4pm goûter: a mid-afternoon pick-me-up involving tables adorned with each cake and tarte possible.
For supper, you have got a number of great choices. Les Chasses, a candlelit white-tableclothed looking room that featured in Emily in Paris is the extra formal one, however L’Auberge bordering the property’s quiet lake is the place the celebration’s at – in essentially the most intimate, secret-feeling method. On our first night time at Les Chasses, we sip Ruinart, eat near-perfection lobster bisque after which crêpes Suzette for dessert (price getting for the spectacle alone: they’ll be flambéed atop a trolley proper subsequent to your desk). But on the farm-to-table L’Auberge, a William Morris-wallpapered lakeside cottage repurposed as a bar and eating room, now we have the classics we got here for: foie gras, matchstick frites, magrets de canard, poires Belle Hélène – all in fact paired with one of the best Gevrey-Chambertin. There’s dwell music, too, and when you stick round lengthy sufficient, you’ll end up in a closed-doors scenario with an (unofficial) open mic and piano, the place everybody stands up from their tables, pops champagne, and sings outdated songs by Serge Gainsbourg, Daniel Balavoine and even Elton John. When we step out for air and absorb stars shining over the black lake, the muted hum of the music and smoke rising from L’Auberge’s chimney makes it seem like a spot out of a movie.
The neighbourhood
This may be very a lot the countryside, and apart from some stunning bike and strolling paths, most of your what-to-dos happen on the property’s grounds. Still, contemplating it’s solely an hour’s drive from Paris, it’s the proper city-to-country escape when you’re in search of two nights within the capital and some extra à la campagne.
The spa
The ultra-clean, green-and-gold bottled Tata Harper has lengthy been my favorite skincare line, so to discover a brand-dedicated spa right here was a real delight. The mythique facial is the definition of restorative: point out your areas of concern, let your facialist do their magic, and depart because the dictionary definition of fresh-faced. The spa can also be situated throughout the property’s former stables, and whilst you’ll discover the same old suspects like a dry sauna and hammam, the year-round heated outside pool is the place you possibly can actually decompress with a bucolic view.
The service
From shuttling you from the Auberge to the farm to recommending one of the best dessert wines, the employees are actually there to handle any want at any hour, with out being overbearing.
For households
Big emphasis on the sure. The nature-wrapped playground is a no brainer for youths, however nothing beats La Ferme, dwelling to the property’s animals like fluffy alpacas, Eeyeore-like donkeys and gigantic bunnies. The entire mini-farm is straight out of Beatrix Potter, and is a assured afternoon of leisure. Should the climate flip, the karaoke, cinema and gaming room provide enjoyable for all ages, whereas Abbaye’s cute devoted Tartine et Chocolat children membership will hold the youthful set entertained, must you want to veer off à deux.
Eco effort
The resort offers sorting amenities to encourage recycling, does not use air-con within the rooms, and modifications mattress linens each three days except in any other case requested. Electric automobile expenses can be found for these driving up. Given the quantity of inexperienced house, it was good to listen to that the resort doesn’t use automated watering programs or pesticides to regulate weeds – which additionally means the grounds don’t look excessively manicured.
Accessibility
The resort has accessible rooms, an elevator, and charming shuttle vans on the prepared throughout the sprawling property.
Anything left to say
I used to be impressed – and fairly moved – by the gathering of literature right here. After a nightcap, we sat in an empty corridor studying out strains from a number of of the dusty bouquins by Victor Hugo and Émile Zola that line the partitions, and all of it felt reasonably dreamlike.