On balmy evenings, Satu seems to be close to irresistible. Beyond paper lanterns and a gaggle of small tables the place trainer-wearing, twenty-somethings fortunately chat, the inside of this corner-hugging bar-restaurant glows a lustrous crimson. Inside, previous thick curtains, you’ll discover daring, superbly offered Thai-inspired tapas being consumed reverse a big bar the place a mustachioed mixologist concocts daring cocktails. In many European cities, such an unique den – one which doesn’t stint on high quality but couldn’t care much less about norms – can be unremarkable. In Geneva, nevertheless, Satu is emblematic of a rebooted, quickly evolving restaurant scene.
As lately as pre-Covid instances, one of the best eating in Switzerland’s second metropolis was reliably formal, fussy and old-school. Of late, nevertheless, the Peace Capital has welcomed a glut of contemporary, enjoyable ideas that preserve requirements however intentionally cast off the pomp. Evoking the colourful, decadent environment of Bangkok’s Chinatown, Satu is one such place.
“Our intention is to be fun: no codes, no conventions,” confirms co-founder Sandrine Pally. “And this is something we’re increasingly seeing across Geneva. With people in the city being ever more well-travelled, many diners want to eat in places with energy, emotion and atmosphere – not just formality.”
Danny Khezzar concurs. Not content material with daringly remixing French classics as chef on the swanky Bayview by Michel Roth, this 29-year-old maverick is newly hawking viral Japanese-style sandos in Sheesh, a takeaway close to the lakefront, and has additionally simply launched Izakaya, a low-lit “social hub” imaginatively fusing French and Japanese approaches. “I’ve always heard it said that Geneva isn’t lively enough,” he says. “And it’s true that it has this palatial element – but there’s also now a more accessible side that’s shaking up our gastronomic scene.” Here are a number of the finest new arrivals.
Izakaya by Danny Khezzar
Fifteen minutes’ stroll from Sheesh, a take-out counter promoting his reimagined, gone-viral Japanese sandos, Izakaya by Danny Khezzar – going through the Rhône river on Quai du Seujet – sees Michel Roux’s protégé honour these namesake Nipponese taverns supplying low-key, post-work drinks and good meals. In this stylish case, that (very) good meals is infused by basic French cooking. After wacky, zensai appetisers like an avocado tartlet under Arctic char rillettes, select between bravura sushi reminiscent of foie gras and unagi eel rolls or A-grade meats grilled on fragrant binchotan charcoal. Low lighting, semi-circular banquettes and eclectic music additional the intimate vibe.
Address: Quai du Seujet 18
Satu
Satu’s cocktails and small plates each include a heady Thai accent. Drinks-wise, most legendary is the oh-so-original mango sticky rice potion: a smoothe, creamy triumph that includes vodka and coconut cameos. Among its sharing eats are strips of picanha jerky in a punchy sriracha sauce, cuts of a five-spice duck served alongside selfmade noodles and the 7-Eleven Toastie, a satay rooster and pickled cucumber quantity nodding to Bangkok’s many comfort shops. A funkier sister institution to Geneva’s already-popular Soï canteen and Suahoy restaurant, Satu lies within the arty, edgy and fast-gentrifying Jonction quarter, close to to the place the town’s two rivers eye-catchingly converge.