Ricardo Teixeira has spent the previous few weeks freshening up Love Lomas, the “love motel” he owns in the Brazilian port metropolis of Belém. He’s additionally mulling the best way to tone down a few of the rooms’ extra sensual facets, together with erotic chairs and menus of intercourse toys on the market. It’s all in anticipation of welcoming a really completely different kind of visitor than his normal clientele.
Love motels are frequent all through Brazil, with rooms accessible by the hour typically booked for romantic trysts. But as tens of 1000’s of individuals descend on Belém for COP30 — the world’s biggest annual climate summit — a dearth of lodging has led to a scramble for beds. Love motels like Teixeira’s are prepared and prepared to fill the hole.
The prospect of diplomats, scientists and climate activists being requested to specify which erotic options they’d like faraway from rooms is placing, however it additionally speaks to a critical situation. As delegates compete for beds, charges have spiked and a few creating international locations and non-profits say they’re being priced out of the summit.
“Their voices (will be) silenced in the very rooms where decisions about their survival are being made,” mentioned Harjeet Singh, a COP negotiations veteran and founding director of Satat Sampada Climate Foundation.
Accommodation woes are only one instance of the chaos and uncertainty some consultants say have paved the solution to this summit.
COP30 was billed as a landmark gathering, the place international locations would chart a course to dramatically lower climate air pollution. Instead, large polluters have missed a number of deadlines to submit nationwide climate targets, President Donald Trump is recent from a speech calling climate change a “con job,” the US says it is not going to ship a delegation to the summit, and Brazil has simply accepted oil drilling at the mouth of the Amazon — all the whereas, international temperatures tick upward and climate targets slip out of reach.
In 2015, beneath the Paris climate agreement, international locations agreed to restrict international warming to 2 levels Celsius above pre-industrial ranges, with the ambition to maintain it under 1.5 levels. “Ten years later, we need to have very honest and very tough conversations on whether we’re actually following that roadmap,” mentioned Juan Carlos Monterrey Gómez, Panama’s particular consultant for climate change.

Brazil’s alternative of Belém as the COP30 location was symbolic. The metropolis is named the “gateway to the Amazon,” and the goal was to focus minds on the existential hazard this huge rainforest faces from the barreling climate disaster.
But Belém was not arrange for the inflow that accompanies COP. The metropolis usually has round 18,000 lodge rooms however is anticipating roughly 50,000 folks.
The official COP30 website lists motels, lots of that are dozens of miles outdoors Belém, for costs starting from about $200 an evening to greater than $1,000, most requiring minimal stays of 11 nights. One head of a negotiating delegation informed NCS they had been being charged greater than $20,000 for 2 weeks in a three-bedroom house.
Organizers insist there will likely be rooms for all and have scrambled to rearrange further lodging, together with on cruise ships, and are providing further help to the most susceptible nations.
But some international locations and non-profits have been pressured to ship skeleton groups, or nobody in any respect. “Our fear is that these logistical barriers might prevent the full participation of everybody that needs to be there,” Monterrey Gómez informed NCS.
As nicely as logistics, the “Amazon COP” can be being overshadowed by Brazil’s resolution in October to greenlight exploratory oil drilling at the mouth of the Amazon River. Activists have decried the resolution as hypocrisy. “Brazil is asking the world to come to Belém to save the most critical ecosystem, while at the same time auctioning it off to the very industry that is destroying it,” Singh mentioned.
Brazilian President Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva has defended the resolution. “It would be incoherent, an irresponsible action, if I said we will no longer use oil,” he mentioned Tuesday in a speech forward of COP30, as reported by AP.
Promoting climate motion whereas concurrently approving new fossil gas initiatives “is the sort of contradiction we’re dealing with right now,” mentioned Alden Meyer, a senior affiliate with the analysis group E3G. “There’s pretty widespread complicity,” he informed NCS. And it brings into stark focus one in every of the thorniest points at COP: the way forward for fossil fuels.
Two years in the past, at COP28 in Dubai, international locations made an unprecedented name to transition away from oil, coal and gasoline. It was heralded as a breakthrough, remarkably the first time a COP remaining settlement had referred to fossil fuels.
Since then, nevertheless, the world has modified; there’s an enormous Trump-shaped gap torn by means of climate diplomacy. Petrostates and oil corporations are increasingly emboldened to push again towards any language blaming fossil fuels for climate change or committing to phasing them out.
When it involves transitioning away from fossil fuels, there may be “no timeline, no targets, no rate of change, no program to support countries and communities in that transition,” Meyer mentioned.
A flurry of experiences launched in the run as much as COP suggests this transition is going on much more slowly than wanted.
A UN analysis of nations’ present climate insurance policies discovered they put the world heading in the right direction for a 2.8 diploma Celsius temperature rise, far above 1.5 and a degree of warming that might push the planet over a number of catastrophic and potentially irreversible tipping points.
Another UN report assessing the climate influence of nations’ formal targets for chopping planet-heating air pollution over the subsequent decade discovered there was not sufficient knowledge to “draw wide-ranging global-level conclusions,” as a result of too few international locations have submitted them.
The unique deadline for these targets, required beneath the Paris climate settlement, was February; 95% of governments missed it. Major climate polluters, together with India and Saudi Arabia, nonetheless have but to formally submit.
“There is limited appetite right now from countries to step up and come forward with ambitious climate action or pledges,” mentioned Niklas Höhne, a global climate coverage skilled at the NewClimate Institute, an unbiased non-profit. In half, this is because of turbulent geopolitics, together with battle, conflict and a worldwide shift to the proper, he informed NCS.
The actions of the US, the planet’s second largest climate polluter, may be an affect. Trump referred to as climate change “the greatest con job ever perpetrated on the world,” in a speech at the UN in September, and the US has since confirmed it received’t send a high level delegation to COP30.

But its absence will hover over COP30 like a shadow — and it might nonetheless exert affect. The US has confirmed to be a strong disruptive pressure at worldwide climate negotiations this yr, serving to derail what would have been two historic agreements: a global plastics treaty and a tax on the delivery trade’s climate air pollution.
US actions ship “a chilling message to the world… (and) gives other laggard countries a shield to hide behind,” Singh mentioned.
It’s arduous to know what is going to emerge from COP30, however consultants say there are actual indicators of hope outdoors the talks, not least the remarkable clean energy boom unfolding at the same time as international political momentum to sort out climate change falters.
“The climate negotiations are the lowest common denominator of what countries are willing to do in the current political circumstances,” Höhne mentioned, and outdoors of the fraught negotiating venues in Belém is a “totally different world.”