Rome
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For greater than two centuries, the Antico Caffè Greco has been a part of the cultural panorama of Rome. Authors and artists, film stars and princesses — even cowboys — have all made the pilgrimage to Via dei Condotti, on the foot of the Spanish Steps, to absorb the storied ambiance of the Italian capital’s oldest coffee home.
Last month, that every one modified. The café, a favourite for Romans and vacationers, shut its doorways. Portraits of former clientele — together with Wild West sharpshooter Buffalo Bill — have been stripped from its partitions; plush pink velvet chairs, seating cubicles and bar stools eliminated; gilded porcelain tableware carried away.
The venue, as well-liked amongst Rome’s Nineteenth-century bourgeoisie because it was with the Nineteen Sixties “La Dolce Vita” in-crowd, turned an empty shell.
Antico Caffè Greco’s sudden demise was the results of a long-running hire dispute between its proprietors, Carlo Pellegrini and Flavia Iozzi, and their landlord, the Israelite Hospital of Rome. The hospital is a non-public establishment that additionally supplies healthcare to sufferers via Italy’s nationwide well being service.
It started in September 2017 when an 80-year lease expired and the Israelite Hospital raised the month-to-month hire from 17,000 euros to 120,000 euros — a leap from about $20,000 to $140,000. The transfer, it stated, was in step with different properties on the road, which is residence to shops that embody Gucci, Versace and Dior.
High business rents have pushed many small companies out of the middle of Rome lately, particularly for the reason that Covid pandemic when lockdowns fueled the rise of residence supply and on-line purchasing.
“We would be ready to pay more rent to keep the café open but not six times the amount we’re paying now,” Pellegrini stated when the Antico lease expired eight years in the past. “I feel very angry, but we will fight this.”
That battle was dealt a decisive blow in 2024, when the hospital lastly received a court docket battle to take away the café’s occupants. It’s purpose is to reopen the venue with a brand new tenant.
Until final month, portraits on the partitions mirrored the café’s previous, together with the day in 1890 when Buffalo Bill took his morning coffee there with some fellow cowboys. It was a favourite hang-out of Charles Dickens, Henry James and John Keats within the Nineteenth century. Later, Orson Welles, Audrey Hepburn and Sophia Loren all frolicked there.
Notorious 18th-century seducer Giacomo Casanova even talked about a “tryst” on the café in his memoir. The couch within the again the place it was stated to have taken place turned well-liked with lovers over the centuries since.
Despite above-average costs, clients at all times appeared to assume sipping a cappuccino or sizzling chocolate from the identical cups as Pablo Picasso or Princess Diana was value paying further.
Pellegrini and Iozzi have been formally evicted in October after dropping 5 appeals and retrials.
The café was shuttered with the assistance of the army police. The locks have been modified and the heavy wood doorways closed for the final time. Lawyers for the hospital eliminated a short lived “closed for vacation” signal that had been taped to the doorways since September.
The court docket stipulated that the hospital should protect the historic integrity of the property, however departing employees informed NCS via their lawyer that they eliminated the café’s paintings in September, which included portraits, sculptures and memorabilia stated to be value round 8 million euros, fearing harm from a leaking pipe.
Antonio Maria Leozappa, particular commissioner for the Israelite Hospital, informed NCS the eliminated works and furnishings have since been seized by authorities and are actually being protected by Italy’s Culture Ministry till new tenants may be discovered. He stated that the hospital was not looking for backpayment from Pellegrini for an annual 100,000 euros hire shortfall for the reason that authorized battle started eight years in the past.
“The Israelite Hospital is a public health asset, and the revenue generated by its properties has always been and will always be used by the Israelite Hospital, an institution affiliated with the National Health System, for the sole purpose of improving healthcare,” the hospital stated in a statement in 2023 after having received certainly one of many court docket battles. It stated the hire improve was an try to enhance healthcare “for the benefit of all citizens.”
Leozappa stated the café will open once more as soon as work is completed within the constructing. “It is a historic café, it is one of the first in Italy, it dates back to the late 18th century,” he informed NCS.
Under a brand new proprietor, the Antico Caffè Greco will “continue to enjoy a long history, respecting tradition and the established regulations, and the historic character of the place will be preserved,” he added. ”The metropolis, Romans, and vacationers will proceed to get pleasure from their coffee on the Antico Caffè Greco for hundreds of years to come back.”
Pellegrini isn’t prepared to surrender the battle simply but. “The matter cannot be closed like this,” his lawyer, Alessandro Ciciarelli, stated when the locks have been modified.
Whatever occurs subsequent, the once-grand area is now an eyesore on some of the prestigious streets within the metropolis middle — certainly one of many empty storefronts, a few of which sit vacant for years, which have appeared because of hovering business and residential costs.
The Antico Caffè Greco’s wood outside terrace now has indicators that its empty planters should not rubbish bins.” Curious vacationers peer via the home windows into the empty area. Inside, the lights are on, however nobody is making coffee.
“I came here every day for almost 15 years,” Manuel Capponi, an aged native who lives on the prime of the Spanish Steps, informed NCS. “It is a tragedy that it had to close this way, the fights, the anger. But this café — and this city — have weathered worse storms. There will be another café and I’m sure the prices will reflect the higher rent.”