In 2015, China handed back one thing of nice worth to Ai Weiwei: his Chinese passport. The transfer allowed the dissident artist to journey for the primary time since authorities revoked his doc in 2011 – the identical 12 months he spent 81 days in secret authorities detention for alleged tax evasion. He moved to Berlin shortly after.
For the previous 10 years Ai has lived in Germany, the UK and now Portugal, by no means as soon as setting foot in his native nation, the place folks with far much less controversial pasts have confronted arbitrary detention. But in mid-December, he determined to take the danger, returning for a three-week go to.
“It felt like a phone call that had been disconnected for 10 years suddenly reconnecting,” he stated of the moment he arrived into Beijing. “The tone, rhythm and speed, all returned to how they were before.”

Glimpses of the go to are on Ai’s Instagram account, the place the artist actively posts however doesn’t sometimes write captions, contributing to the journey’s under-the-radar high quality. Varied scenes embrace a video of smokestacks within the unmistakable gentle mild of a Beijing winter, the artist puffing cigarettes as a Lazy Susan spins leisurely with dishes and a bottle of Nongfu Spring, a native mineral water model; and a robotic getting out of an elevator.
Still photos present the artist lifting dumbbells at an indoor fitness center and catching up with previous pals – the odd changing into considerably extraordinary when put next to how intensely he was surveilled by authorities when he was final in China’s capital.
Nostalgia permeates the photographs. “What I missed most was speaking Chinese,” he stated. “For immigrants, the greatest loss is not wealth, loneliness or an unfamiliar lifestyle, but the loss of linguistic exchange.”
When Ai left in 2015, he was a thorn on the federal government’s facet. The outspoken artist and activist relentlessly criticized China on every part from alleged human rights abuses to censorship and corruption, with artworks similar to “Remembering” (2009) – an set up commemorating the 1000’s of kids killed below the collapse of shoddily-constructed faculty buildings in the course of the 2008 Sichuan earthquake – gaining worldwide consideration. In “S.A.C.R.E.D,” he depicted what it was like to be imprisoned for practically three months, within the type of six life-sized dioramas that debuted on the 2013 Venice Biennale.
Such items got here at a time when – within the years after the 2008 Beijing Olympics – officers rigorously projected a new period of Chinese growth and aggressively cracked down on any dissent. In the last decade Ai has been away, China’s censorship and surveillance efforts have solely grown extra refined, with critics now fearing that synthetic intelligence is turbocharging these techniques of management.

Ai had beforehand said he had no illusions about his probabilities of returning to China. But now his son is sort of 17 years previous, he not bears the identical weight of parental accountability – and feels “relatively freer” to act of his personal accord.
Poignant pictures from the journey shared with NCS present the daddy and son strolling out of Beijing Capital International Airport, in addition to reuniting with Ai’s 93-year-old mom.
“When I noticed my mom, she was smiling and particularly completely happy to see my son. They held arms the complete time. She didn’t say a lot, however she was deeply content material. That contentment was like a light wind on a sizzling day, or a few drops of rain throughout a drought – pure, humane happiness.
“I am not familiar with this kind of feeling, and it surprised me,” he added.

Ai didn’t take any particular precautions when planning the journey however was “inspected and interrogated” for nearly two hours at Beijing’s airport earlier than he was allowed to cross immigration. “The questions were very simple: How long do you plan to stay here? Where else do you plan to go?”
The indisputable fact that remainder of the 68-year-old’s go to was “smooth and, one could say, pleasant” could sign authorities’ confidence on a variety of fronts: a Chinese public that’s more and more unfamiliar with the artist as his title and works have been largely censored on the nation’s social media platforms; and within the expansive attain of their surveillance applied sciences. Politically, there may additionally be little to achieve from the worldwide outcry that might come up have been the high-profile artist detained or prevented from coming into Beijing.
The pink strains in China, as all the time, are obscure and fast-evolving. Another outstanding Chinese artist, Gao Zhen, had relocated to New York however returned to China in June 2024 to go to household, solely to be detained about a week earlier than he deliberate to return to the US, for scathing sculptures of Mao he created over a decade in the past.
From Europe, Ai has continued to produce works which are crucial of the state, such because the 2020 documentary “Coronation,” on China’s preliminary dealing with of the Covid-19 outbreak in Wuhan, and “Cockroach,” a sympathetic tackle the 2019 Hong Kong pro-democracy protests. But he has additionally gone to nice lengths to make artwork of what’s in entrance of him: the worldwide refugee disaster and, extra just lately, the war in Ukraine.
When requested if he thought the Chinese authorities’s attitudes in the direction of him had modified given his trouble-free keep, he stated he didn’t suppose any change started just lately.
“Rather, it comes from my long-term public work in expressing my views… Although a country or group may disagree with my positions, they at least recognize that I speak sincerely and not for personal gain.”
He believes China is “in an upward phase,” pointing to particular person wealth, nationwide power and private freedoms, although discussing political matters stays taboo. “The overall trajectory is one of ascent, even though different problems emerge at different stages.”
Western society, conversely, is in decline, he argued, in maybe uncommon settlement with the frequent message from Chinese leaders. He added that modifications he’s seen over the previous 10 years have “shocked” him. “It feels like a landslide burying the highways it once built. Values once celebrated now appear hollow and collapsed. The West increasingly struggles to sustain its own logic; in many areas it has lost its ethical authority and descended into something barely recognizable.”
So does he plan on transferring again to China anytime quickly?
“I have never truly left anywhere; the distance has simply grown longer,” Ai defined. He as soon as stated he felt that he belonged nowhere, a “stranger” in all places he goes. But it’s his Chinese passport that retains him rooted.
“Even when I lived under great difficulty, I still felt that this identity gave me the fundamental right to return to my place of birth. Other human-made obstacles were secondary.”