Condé Nast Traveler


Istria—with its sleepy fishing villages, azure waters, and verdant hills of truffle, olive, and vine—continues to be, miraculously, below the radar. Straddling each Mediterranean and Balkan identification, this pointed peninsula makes for not solely an ideal Tuscan rival, however for a softer, extra refined counterpart to the tourist-soaked Dalmatian coast.

Luckily, a raft of latest flight routes from UK airports have pushed open the floodgates, as have a brand new wave of design-forward accommodations, farm-to-fork eating places, and coastal hideaways. Put merely, Istria is now very a lot a contender for a worthy weekend getaway for these based mostly in Europe or a tack-on to an extended Balkans jaunt, although bear in thoughts that such remoted, considerable magnificence comes at a slight value in phrases of public transport infrastructure (extra on how to get round under).

The small scale and straightforward roads of the area imply {that a} typical Istrian day can kick off with some truffle searching among the many inland hills of Motovun, or Buzet, earlier than twisting right into a lunchtime snorkel down alongside the craggy coasts. By sundown, you’re in the quaint outdated cities of Rovinj, or Porec, sipping crisp Malvazija and questioning the place on earth the day went.

Somehow, this place has managed to keep concurrently refined, but wild; relaxed, but all the time on the transfer, boasting extra cyclists than seagulls, and as many outside fans as there are cashmere clad {couples} on catamarans.

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FAQ:

What’s one of the best ways to get to Istria?

While there are not any direct flights from the US to Pula, it’s simply reached through a connection by main European hubs like Frankfurt, Munich, or London. From there, regional carriers like Croatia Airlines function brief flights instantly into Pula Airport. Likewise, easyJet has expanded its Croatian attain, with returns from Pula to London ranging from round $64 per individual. For these completely satisfied to pair the journey with a scenic drive, Venice Marco Polo Airport—served by direct flights from New York, Boston, and Chicago—is only a two-and-a-half-hour drive away from the Istrian border, making it a well-liked entry level for worldwide vacationers, and an ace roadtrip en route.

What’s one of the best ways to get round Istria?

With the area’s twin geography of coast and grove, a rental automotive is should, with suppliers like Kayak providing up a Croat automotive for as little as $43 a day. In phrases of pick-up factors, Pula Airport is essentially the most handy alternative if flying instantly, and boasts a number of worldwide rent desks. As above, if touchdown in Italy, many travellers decide to seize a automotive in Venice, or Trieste, and drive over the border into Croatia. This route gives sweeping sea views, and drops you instantly into Istria’s hilltop villages, and vineyards—a no brainer.

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Monte is the primary Michelin-starred restaurant in Croatia.

Mateja Vrcković

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A sun-drenched desk set for a multi-course tasting at Monte.

Maja Danica Pečanić

Where to eat in Istria

Istria has lengthy been related to gastronomy of the purest form, with a deep, quasi-religious give attention to the purity of olives, grapes, and the ever-elusive truffle. It’s not stunning then, that your entire area is affected by high-quality eateries, from Michelin stars to native taverns (referred to as konobas) all providing a slice of the panorama in one place. The highest focus of celebrity eats is in and across the modern fishing city of Rovinj, house to Croatia’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, Monte. However, for a extra informal chew, head to Puntulina, constructed into the cliff-face, so shut to the spray that the Adriatic anchovies could as properly bounce straight out of the ocean and onto the plate. Set inside the Grand Park Hotel, Cap Aureo is world-class superb eating with a distinction. ​​In chef Jeffrey Vella’s dishes, taste and seasonality are king (corresponding to his life-affirming cauliflower ‘three-ways’ appetizer), with welcome aptitude and understated theatrics.

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At Cap Aureo Signature Restaurant in Rovinj, fashionable Croatian delicacies is elevated to an artwork type, served with precision and aptitude.

Mario Kucera/Grand Park Hotel Rovinj

A little bit additional south, in the placid olive groves of Bale, Meneghetti Restaurant & Bar gives an area menu, gleaned from their very own groves and backyard, cooked up by 28-year-old wunderkind Ante Miletic. Dishes dance between truffle-topped fuži pastas, Lim Bay oysters, or no matter is budding in the considerable kitchen backyard that day. Heading north into the fairytale hill cities of Motovun, Grožnjan, and extra, simpler choices might be discovered in one of many many roadside konobas, with Konoba Stari Podrum’s convivial backyard and open grill properly value popping the hazard lights on for.





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