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Morgan Henderson's Wardrobe Choices in HBO's War Reflect Understated Luxury

The new HBO series War explores the inner workings of the British establishment through its characters' clothing choices, offering a nuanced portrayal of class and privilege.

In HBO’s 'War,' the Divorcees Go to Savile Row
Source: GQ

Billionaire tech mogul Morgan Henderson is a stylish figure on HBO's new legal drama War, but his wardrobe choices are more about understated luxury than flashy flair.

Costume designer Matt Price wanted to convey Henderson's wealth and status through his clothes without relying on obvious symbols of affluence like neckties. To achieve this, Price opted for a minimalist approach, dressing Henderson in attire that exudes subtle sophistication rather than loud displays of wealth.

The show's setting - a high-stakes divorce between Henderson and actress Carla Duval - provides a unique backdrop to explore the inner workings of the British establishment. Through its characters' clothing choices, War offers a nuanced portrayal of class and privilege in modern Britain.

As the show's costume designer, Price was keenly aware of the importance of getting the details right when it comes to luxury brands. "I don't think you can necessarily cheat luxury on camera," he notes, suggesting that authenticity is key when depicting characters from the upper echelons of society.

The costumer's initial vision for West's character was to dress him in 1990s vintage Armani suits. However, this simpler look ultimately stuck, albeit with a few touches of flair such as rare orange detailing or a lilac shirt.

Price wanted to highlight the legacy of Savile Row, which is located just minutes away from the fictional law firms where West and Duval seek representation in their messy divorce. The street's heritage was an important aspect to Price, who notes that its independence is remarkable given its short length.

The spaces for the law firms had already been designed when Price joined the show, so he focused on creating outfits that would fit within those environments. Cathcarts' space, in particular, was more traditional and compartmentalized with wood cladding.

The wardrobe requirements for certain characters in HBO's 'War' series were anything but ordinary. Classic three-piece Savile Row suits and trilby hats were not just a nod to tradition, but a deliberate choice to convey a sense of sophistication and refinement.

At Taylor & Byrne, the outfits had to be more than just classic - they needed to be elevated and modern. This meant finding a balance between timeless pieces and subtle nods to individuality. For some characters, this involved mixing high-end tailoring with unexpected details that hinted at their outsider status.

Johnny Warren's character posed an interesting challenge in terms of wardrobe. As a double agent and a striving lawyer, he needed to fit in with the upper echelons of his clients while also conveying his slightly awkward position outside those circles. His look was envisioned as a mashup of leftover clothing from his time in New York, including a classic American button-down shirt with mismatched stripes and a printed tie.

To achieve a classic look for the character's wardrobe, Price opted for a boxier fit than his usual attire at work, ensuring that the overall appearance was timeless and elegant.

The team ultimately chose Ede & Ravenscroft to create the bespoke suit, opting for traditional British tailoring techniques.

Price has been exploring newer conventions of formal dressing outside of his work on the show, expressing interest in softer tailoring and innovative brands like Kartik Research.

Facts based on reporting originally published by GQ.

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