Ultimately, it’s spontaneity, originality and transience that set these collaborations aside. “It’s like a cameo at a concert,” Santiago says. Cynthia makes the identical analogy, illustrating the sense of a cultural or leisure expertise being additional enriched. I’m reminded of the crossover TV specials from my very own youth, like “That’s So Suite Life of Hannah Montana” – the thrill of seeing disparate idols united.
“It’s a moment in time,” Elliot displays. “Diners can experience names that don’t usually work together, and a one-off menu builds anticipation. People know that it won’t happen too often, because it loses its magic otherwise.”
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According to Santiago, the shared pleasure and anticipation foster a way of group for diners. “It’s not like any other day or dinner, you can’t do it all the time, so the atmosphere feels unique, everyone is connected in going in for this limited-time experience.”
It’s precisely this glowing conviviality that I really feel at these occasions, whether or not it is a New York-ified Mayfair lodge or a hip Shoreditch Thai joint welcoming soulful French cooking. Even with such contrasting settings and menus, the rooms are charged with joie de vivre – everybody united in feeling a bit of bit particular, even perhaps a bit of smug, to have a seat at the (short-term) desk.
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Some dates on your diary
Quality Wines and Friends – Dara Klein, Sunday 31 August, Boutheina Ben Salem, Sunday 28 September, Melek Erdal, Sunday 26 October