For his latest show, Matthieu Blazy has incorporated a striking visual motif: 95 large white seagulls suspended from the ceiling of the Grand Palais, evoking a sense of freedom and liberation that is at the heart of the brand's ethos.

The dramatic presentation is set against a backdrop of a glowing moon, casting an otherworldly light on the birds as if they are frozen mid-flight.

The evolution of Chanel's runway shows is a story that spans over a century, reflecting significant changes in fashion and culture. A new book, Chanel Shows Fashion Mise-en-Scène, documents this transformation, which began when Gabrielle Chanel founded her eponymous label in 1909 in the heart of Paris.

As the brand grew, so did its creative vision. In 1918, Chanel established a headquarters at Number 31, Rue Cambon, where she showcased her personal style through her atelier's design. The space featured a unique blend of historical elements, including painted wood furnishings and Eastern ceramics, juxtaposed against a mirrored staircase.

The intimate setting of the early shows was short-lived under Karl Lagerfeld, who took over after Chanel's death in 1971. Despite initially adhering to the more subdued style, Lagerfeld soon outgrew the space with his grand visions for the brand's runway presentations.

As the 1990s unfolded, Chanel's brand image began to overshadow its collections. This shift was partly due to the sheer number of shows being held annually, with six events: two ready-to-wear, two couture, cruise, and métiers d'art.

The growing audience for these shows led to increasingly elaborate productions. To accommodate this demand, Lagerfeld opted to stage some of his runway presentations at larger venues.

In 2005, the Paris Grand Palais reopened, providing a new home base for Chanel's ready-to-wear and couture shows.

The meticulous planning that goes into creating a Chanel runway show is staggering. It takes 12 days of intense preparation for an event that lasts just 15 minutes on stage. This level of detail extends to every aspect of the show, from the design and construction of sets to the careful selection of models and music.

Chanel's shows have long been renowned for their ability to transport guests to fantastical worlds they might not otherwise experience. The Spring 2012 couture show is a prime example, where the Grand Palais was transformed into a full-scale replica of an airplane, complete with passenger seats and a catwalk down the center aisle.

In recent years, over-the-top shows have become increasingly common in the fashion industry. However, Chanel's ability to consistently push the boundaries of creativity and spectacle remains unmatched. The Fall 2014 show, for instance, reimagined a supermarket setting, complete with shelves stacked with rebranded groceries.

The boundaries of creativity were pushed to new limits at Louis Vuitton's Spring 2027 men's collection show, which featured a massive multistory set piece designed to resemble a tidal wave, complete with real water.

Haider Ackermann brought his unique touch to Tom Ford with an innovative approach that saw models taking on character roles, interacting with the audience in a playful and mischievous manner.

Harper's Bazaar: https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/a74252696/chanel-shows-rizzoli-coffee-table-book-evolution/

The designer Julian Louie credits a 1998 image of director Todd Haynes sporting an iridescent purple shirt during the press tour for Velvet Goldmine with sparking his interest in shiny dress shirts. This encounter from nearly two decades ago has had a lasting impact on Louie's design aesthetic, influencing the development of Aubero, the label he launched in 2022.

The trend is gaining momentum, with several high-profile figures recently seen donning shiny garments. Pedro Pascal's red-carpet appearance earlier this year in a vibrant, luminous green shirt by Aubero drew particular attention, its brightness rivaling that of a freshly cut lime.

Heated Rivalry's Connor Storrie has consistently worn Saint Laurent's silky shirts on the red carpet, solidifying his status as a brand ambassador.

Resident Evil star Austin Abrams took the trend to new heights by donning a shiny two-piece suit from Maison Valentino, showcasing a more formal take on the look.

The resurgence of glossy dress shirts is not without precedent, as anyone familiar with early 2000s Hollywood fashion will recall. This revival has been accompanied by a renewed interest in other Y2K styles that were once considered passé.

Luxury retailer Mytheresa's menswear buying director, Sophie Jordan, points to the spring 2026 collections as a turning point for this trend, suggesting that designers are actively incorporating shiny fabrics into their designs.

Designers have continued to incorporate shiny fabrics into their collections since Gucci's first outing under Demna showcased this trend in a bold yet masculine way.

Luxury retailers like Mytheresa are seeing a significant interest in these types of evening shirts among their shoppers, with printed silk options from Tom Ford being particularly popular.

The "evening shirt" category encompasses not just shiny fabrics but also more luxurious materials such as velvet and sheer fabrics, according to Mytheresa's menswear buying director Sophie Jordan.

These designs allow men to tap into the sensual aspects of menswear without going over the top, instead providing a subtle yet eye-catching way to make an impression.

The resurgence of shiny dress shirts in menswear is a phenomenon that has been building momentum over the past few seasons. Louie's early designs showcased his unique approach to reimagining traditional materials and silhouettes for the modern man.

Notably, some prominent fashion houses have continued to feature shiny dress shirts on their runways, including Tom Ford and Dolce & Gabbana. These labels' use of this style element has helped keep it relevant and desirable among fashion enthusiasts.

Dries Van Noten's creative take on the classic dress shirt has further elevated its status in menswear. By incorporating bold prints and patterns into his designs, he has transformed the garment into a true work of art.

The shift towards adopting shiny dress shirts can also be attributed to the influence of labels like Our Legacy, which continues to push the boundaries of fashion with their unique shirting designs that have garnered a loyal following among adventurous dressers.

The shift towards adopting shiny dress shirts can be attributed to various factors, including the influence of fashion labels pushing boundaries with unique designs.

For those who want to dip their toes into this trend without going overboard, there are options available that blend cotton and silk in varying proportions, resulting in a subtle sheen. Brands like Auralee and Tom Ford offer dress shirts with more cotton than silk, providing a finish that catches the light without being too flashy.

As Jordan suggests, it's wise for beginners to start with a moderate approach, incorporating a little texture and sheen into their wardrobe before making a full commitment to shiny dress shirts.

GQ: https://www.gq.com/story/the-return-of-the-shiny-dress-shirt-trend

Skin-flashing silhouettes have taken center stage, as stars like Rosalía have traded in cozy layers for bold, revealing designs. At the 2026 Billboard Latin Awards in Miami, Rosalía stunned in a black Tom Ford by Haider Ackermann look featuring a skirt suit with a bra top and belted detail.

The trend of skin-baring fashion is not limited to Rosalía alone, as Alexander Skarsgård also made a statement at the Wicker premiere. The actor wore a custom Chopova Lowena outfit that included a graphic pleated skirt and tee featuring his co-star Olivia Colman's face.

Other celebrities have also joined in on the trend of sheer and daring fashion, including Kim Kardashian and Naomi Ackie. At an event in Rome, Kim Kardashian wowed in a vintage Yves Saint Laurent leopard-print gown, while Naomi Ackie opted for Dilara Findikoglu's leather vampy dress ahead of Halloween weekend.

The stars were out in full force this week, showcasing their personal styles in a variety of skin-flashing silhouettes that left everyone talking.

Dua Lipa made a statement at the Metropolitan Opera world premiere gala, where she stunned in a sleek ensemble that accentuated her curves. The singer's outfit was a far cry from her usual bold and daring fashion choices, but it still managed to turn heads at the event. With its streamlined silhouette and attention-grabbing details, Lipa's look was sure to be remembered for days to come.

Meanwhile, Jenna Ortega opted for a more understated yet equally eye-catching outfit at the "Klara And The Sun New York Screening. Her choice of clothing may have been less flashy than some of her peers, but it still showcased her impeccable taste and sense of style. Whether she's walking the red carpet or attending a private event, Ortega always seems to bring a touch of elegance and sophistication to the table.

In London, Simone Ashley was spotted at the DeMellier Flagship Launch Event, where she made a bold fashion statement in a daring ensemble that showcased her confidence and poise. With its daring cut-outs and eye-catching details, Ashley's outfit was sure to be remembered for days to come. Whether she's attending a high-profile event or just running errands, the actress always seems to bring a touch of glamour and sophistication to everything she does.

Olivia Dean also made an impact at The 2026 Mercury Music prize, where she wore a striking ensemble that perfectly captured her edgy and eclectic personal style. With its bold colors and daring details, Dean's outfit was sure to be remembered for days to come, cementing her status as one of the most stylish stars in the industry today.

The stars continued to shine brightly on the red carpet this week, showcasing their personal styles and flair for fashion at various events around the world.

Rosalia turned heads in Miami as she attended the 2026 Billboard Latin Awards at James L. Knight Center, where her outfit was a testament to her bold sense of style. Meanwhile, Kim Kardashian brought her signature glamour to Rome's 21st Rome Film Festival, where she attended the All's Fair screening at Auditorium Parco Della Musica.

Alexander Skarsgård and Gemma Chan were also spotted on the red carpet, with Skarsgård attending the Los Angeles Premiere of Black Bear's Wicker" at DGA Theatre in California, and Chan receiving the Outstanding Achievement in Acting Award at the 27th Annual Newport Beach Film Festival.

Vogue: https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/10-best-dressed-stars-rosalia-jenna-ortega-naomi-ackie

Runways were flooded with see-through organza, high-cut briefs, and bullet bras, evoking a sense of nudity that has become increasingly prominent in recent years. This trend raises questions about the relationship between weight loss medications and fashion choices.

The global market for GLP-1s, a class of weight loss medications, is projected to reach $190 billion by 2035, with sales reaching $79 billion in 2025 alone. The use of these medications is expected to become increasingly widespread, with forecasts suggesting that one in three Americans and one in eight Britons will be using them by 2030.

As the use of GLP-1s becomes more prevalent, it's becoming harder to ignore their potential impact on fashion trends. Luxury brands are reportedly seeing a shift in client body measurements, with Paris-based fashion sourcer Isabel Bazzani noting that couture houses have had to update their records due to changes in client sizes.

The trend of "naked dressing and the increasing visibility of skin on runways has sparked debate about correlation and causation. Are designers responding to the growing number of people using weight loss medications by creating clothing that accentuates the body, or is this simply a coincidence?

Bazzani's observations suggest that the shrinking of client bodies is a real trend in high fashion, with luxury brands struggling to keep up with changing size requirements. As the relationship between GLP-1s and fashion continues to evolve, it will be interesting to see how designers respond to these changes.

Fashion analysts are observing a subtle yet significant shift in clothing design that may be linked to the growing popularity of GLP-1s. According to Frida Tordhag, fashion analyst at Heuritech, this change is not straightforward and cannot be directly correlated with runway trends.

While some experts agree with Tordhag's assessment, others see a more complex relationship between GLP-1s and fashion. Krista Corrigan, senior retail analyst at EDITED, notes that her team is still studying the trend to understand its nuances and potential correlations.

Confirming these connections can be challenging, as Corrigan points out. However, she believes that some trends may indeed be influenced by GLP-1s. For instance, design elements such as adjustable straps or elastic hems could become increasingly popular.

The shift towards functional design is also evident in the use of belts as a styling tool. Laura Yiannakou, womenswear senior strategist at WGSN, notes that this trend is not just about aesthetics but also about creating a customizable shape. Supersized belts were featured on runways at Celine, while designers like Valentino used them to create cinched peplum waists.

Design details such as crossed lacing and zippers are becoming more prominent in clothing designs. This functional approach to fashion is being driven by the need for garments that can adapt to individual body shapes and sizes. As Yiannakou notes, belts are no longer just accessories but essential tools for creating a tailored look.

The emphasis on functional design may signal a move away from revealing or skin-baring trends associated with GLP-1s. Instead, designers are focusing on creating garments that provide comfort and flexibility, allowing wearers to feel confident and at ease in their clothing choices.

Designers are focusing on creating garments that cater to the changing needs of consumers, particularly those who experience fluctuations in body size.

In response to this trend, belts and cinched-waist outerwear have become staples of spring/summer 2027 fashion, offering a flexible approach to dressing while accentuating smaller proportions.

Retail data reveals a significant surge in demand for functional clothing, with arrivals of bottoms featuring adjustable waistbands more than doubling month-on-month in May 2026. Similarly, belted bottoms saw a 50% increase year-over-year.

On the runway, designers showcased innovative fastening systems and adaptable silhouettes, including self-tie fabric belts on wide-leg pants at Max Mara and adjustable Velcro fastenings securing skirts at Prada.

Fabrics with breathability and ease are also gaining traction in the fashion industry. Designers such as Issey Miyake incorporated tempo pleats into their designs, while Stella McCartney featured wave-inspired silhouettes.

Column dresses have become increasingly popular, with designers like Alberta Ferretti creating fluid silhouettes and Christopher Esber incorporating cutouts. The silhouette has nearly doubled in dress market share according to WGSN retail data, indicating a strong demand for shapes that sit on the body comfortably.

The trend towards greater body exposure is continuing unabated on the runway and in stores. Data from various sources indicates that consumers are seeking clothing that accentuates their form rather than clinging to it.

This shift away from skin-tight garments is evident in the decline of bodycon dresses and slim pants, which have seen significant drops in sales over the past year. In Europe, bodycon dress arrivals have fallen by 8% year-on-year, while in the US, they are down 6%. Similarly, slim pants have lost popularity, with a 25% drop in Europe, 21% in China, and 20% in the US.

The SS27 runway shows showcased a dramatic departure from the skin-tight aesthetic of previous seasons. Designers opted for garments that accentuated the body through cutouts, lingerie-inspired details, and sheer fabrics. At Gucci and Tom Ford, the focus was on overt displays of flesh, while Chloé and Dior presented more subtle expressions of this trend.

One notable aspect of the SS27 collections is the convergence of volume and transparency. Designers such as Alberta Ferretti, Bluemarine, and The Attico explored this interplay between lace, lingerie features, and sheer fabrics across voluminous silhouettes. This blending of opposing styles has resulted in a new kind of dressing that prioritizes comfort over strict fit.

The rise of sheer and soft fabrics is also a key feature of the current fashion landscape. Fine lace is experiencing significant growth, with increases of 41% in China and 19% in Europe. Dresses made from this fabric are particularly popular, with sales up 49% in China, 37% in Europe, and 19% in the US.

In-store visibility of chiffon and satin dresses is also on the rise, as consumers opt for a softer expression of naked dressing. This shift away from fishnet and mesh fabrics, which are declining in popularity, suggests that consumers are seeking more comfortable and subtle ways to showcase their bodies.

The trend of lingerie-inspired fashion continues to gain momentum this season, with personal shoppers reporting high demand for sheer dresses, tops, and skirts from top designers like Saint Laurent and Chanel.

Saint Laurent's silicone-lace designs are particularly popular among clients, while Hermès's undergarment-revealing pieces have also been in high demand. The trend of lingerie-inspired fashion is not limited to these brands alone, as Heuritech data shows that lace-trimmed camisoles have seen a significant increase in sales across Europe and the US.

In China, the market for lace-trimmed camisoles has grown by an even more substantial 59% year-on-year. The trend of incorporating lingerie details into everyday wear is also evident in the rise of tops with lace detail, which have increased in popularity by 56% in Europe, 43% in the US, and 59% in China.

The runway shows were not immune to this trend either, with bra tops making a notable appearance at various designer labels. At Prada, they were styled as cone-shaped designs, while Jean Paul Gaultier opted for a more futuristic approach. Tod's and Hermès took a more understated approach, using leather and silk scarves to create the illusion of lingerie.

The prevalence of bra tops on the runway has led some to draw parallels with the rise of GLP-1s, which have been associated with weight loss. However, it is worth noting that these medications are not a guarantee for thinness, and their impact on fashion trends remains unclear.

The trend of lingerie-inspired fashion is not limited to just one aspect, as sheer fabrics have also seen an increase in demand. This shift away from fishnet and mesh fabrics may be indicative of a desire for softer, more feminine expressions of naked dressing".

At London Fashion Week, Di Petsa's latest collection showcased a mix of skin-baring designs and inclusive sizing, reflecting the brand's commitment to diversity.

The runway featured transparent dresses, plunging necklines, and models wearing jewelry or their own hands as makeshift cover-ups, yet the emphasis was on showcasing garments in diverse sizes rather than emphasizing nudity. Di Petsa's approach is centered around inclusivity, which has been a core aspect of her brand since its inception.

Designers like Rick Owens in Paris, Marco Rambaldi in Milan, and Collina Strada in New York also prioritized inclusivity on their runways, featuring diverse models in skin-baring designs that challenged traditional notions of body type. As Collina Strada's creative director Hillary Taymour put it, fashion should not be represented by a single body type.

Vogue: https://www.vogue.com/article/sheer-looks-to-lingerie-are-glp-1s-changing-the-way-we-dress

Among the honorees recognized on the night were Charlize Theron, who received the Icon Award, John Carpenter, winner of the Luminary Award, and Colman Domingo, recipient of the Vantage Award. Meanwhile, Taylor Swift treated attendees to a special performance, adding to the evening's glamour. As the guests made their way down the red carpet, they did so in style.

While some stars opted for more streamlined looks, others chose to lean into classic Hollywood glamour with a twist. Naomi Ackie kicked off proceedings in a show-stopping purple Balenciaga gown featuring an impressive tiered and voluminous silhouette. The actress's bold fashion choice set the tone for the rest of the evening.

Other attendees, such as Maya Hawke and Mia Goth, also turned heads on the red carpet with their sleek and sophisticated ensembles. Hawke wore a crystal-bejeweled Prada column gown, while Goth opted for a slinky black sequin Dior dress that showcased her elegance.

The sixth annual Academy Museum Gala took place on October 17, 2026, in Los Angeles, California, and it was a night to remember for many celebrities who attended the event. The red carpet saw an array of stunning outfits from some of Hollywood's biggest names. Naomi Ackie, one of the attendees, turned heads with her elegant appearance.

Taylor Swift also made an entrance at the gala, looking every bit the star she is. Her outfit was just one aspect of what made her a standout on the red carpet. The attention to detail in her overall look was impressive and caught the eye of many who were present at the event.

The evening's festivities included a range of notable guests, with Diego Calva being one of those who walked the red carpet. His presence added to the glamour and excitement of the night. As for the Academy Museum itself, its grandeur provided an inspiring backdrop for the gala.

Maya Hawke was another celebrity in attendance at the sixth annual Academy Museum Gala. Her outfit was a testament to her sense of style and fashion. The overall atmosphere of the event seemed to be one of celebration, with many of the attendees clearly enjoying themselves.

Cole Escola and Elle Fanning were also among those who attended the gala, each making their own unique contribution to the evening's festivities. Their presence added to the excitement and glamour of the night, which was certainly a memorable occasion for all involved.

The red carpet was ablaze with style as guests arrived at the 6th Annual Academy Museum Gala at the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures in Los Angeles, California on October 17, 2026. One guest who caught the eye was Miyako Bellizzi, whose elegant presence added to the glamour of the evening.

Hailey Bieber also made a stunning appearance, her look turning heads as she walked the red carpet. The beauty and style icon's outfit was just one of many show-stopping ensembles on display that night. Meanwhile, A$AP Rocky brought his signature swagger to the event, exuding confidence in every pose.

The evening saw another slew of fashion-forward attendees, including Tracee Ellis Ross, who shone brightly in her chosen attire. Greta Lee also made an impression with her stylish appearance, while Emma Chamberlain rounded out the list of notable guests, each one contributing to a night that was as memorable for its style as it was for its entertainment value.

The Academy Museum Gala drew together a diverse and talented group of individuals, all united by their passion for film and fashion. The event provided an opportunity for attendees to mingle and connect with like-minded people, adding an extra layer of excitement and energy to the proceedings.

The event featured a diverse range of attendees, each showcasing their unique sense of style as they walked the red carpet. Colman Domingo made a statement in his outfit, standing out among the crowd with his bold choice.

Charlize Theron also caught the eye of onlookers, her elegant ensemble exuding sophistication and glamour. Other notable attendees included Whitney Peak, who opted for a more understated yet equally impressive look, as well as Connor Storrie, whose style was marked by a sense of youthful energy.

Emily Ratajkowski added to the evening's visual feast with her own distinctive flair, while Eiza González brought a touch of Latin flair to the proceedings. The diverse and vibrant array of styles on display only added to the excitement of the event, creating a truly memorable experience for all involved.

The sixth annual Academy Museum Gala drew a star-studded crowd to the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures in Los Angeles on October 17. Among those in attendance was Kendall Jenner, who made a stylish impression at the event.

Hunter Schafer and Nigerian-British actor Wunmi Mosaku were also spotted at the gala, showcasing their unique sense of style alongside other attendees. Jacob Elordi's presence added to the glamour of the evening, as he mingled with fellow celebrities in attendance.

The diverse array of styles on display created a truly memorable experience for all involved, with each guest bringing their own personality and flair to the event.

Vogue: https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/best-dressed-stars-academy-museum-gala-10-15-2026

The constant barrage of styles can be overwhelming, akin to being force-fed information without a break, leaving even the most seasoned observers feeling drained. Despite the exhaustion, however, fashion insiders have emerged from this ordeal with some keen insights.

After weeks of analyzing collections and scrutinizing every detail, menswear experts claim they've reached a higher plane of understanding. This newfound expertise has prompted them to share their observations with others.

As a result, several leading menswear professionals were asked for their top picks from the spring 2027 season, along with an explanation of why these looks stood out.

The menswear industry has been abuzz with excitement as the latest spring 2027 season came to a close during Fashion Month. Several stylish ensembles stood out from the crowd, and experts weighed in on their favorites.

One of the most striking looks was seen at Valentino's show, where a delicate touch was evident throughout the collection. The use of lime green accents added a pop of color that elevated the overall design, and the loose bib created movement and flow. This subtle yet effective approach to styling caught the attention of many industry insiders.

At Jil Sander, Simone Bellotti made a bold statement with her take on minimalism in the digital age. Her collection featured a coat that seemed to move like a living organism, creating a striking visual effect against the otherwise subdued color palette. The pale pink hue added an unexpected twist, making this look stand out from the rest.

Meanwhile, Celine's show showcased a bold and eye-catching ensemble featuring purple and red hues paired with a crisp white shoe.

The fashion universe of Conner Ives is one that many would love to disappear into, with its emphasis on maximalism and flamboyance in a laid-back yet cool way. His NYC club aesthetic is all about making a statement without trying too hard. The result is an environment where creativity knows no bounds and self-expression is encouraged.

Meanwhile, Maximilian Davis's work at Ferragamo has garnered praise from fashion insiders, with Angelo Mitakos highlighting the brand's fisherman's vests as a standout feature this season. By combining casual, almost sporty elements with tailoring, Davis has created something truly unique. Interestingly, Prada had previously experimented with oversized fisherman's vests paired over blazers, but Davis's approach is seen as even more innovative.

The menswear offerings from Miu Miu have also been making waves in the fashion world, particularly among photographers like Cris Fragkou who appreciate the brand's bold, short-sleeved looks. It's not often that we get to see menswear designs from Miu Miu, given the brand's decision to discontinue its menswear line several years ago.

Fragkou has expressed admiration for two specific Miu Miu looks that showcase the brand's ability to create stylish and functional pieces for men who prefer shorter sleeves. As someone who often struggles to find clothes that fit properly, Fragkou appreciates the attention to detail and focus on comfort that these designs demonstrate.

The Miu Miu look that caught the eye of Adrien Communier, style editor for a prominent French fashion publication, is a perfect blend of femininity and masculinity. The brand's signature multi-layering, cute tie details, and boxers come together to create a unique and stylish ensemble that defies traditional notions of menswear.

Communier also praised Tom Ford's collaboration with Haider Ackermann, calling it a match made in heaven. This partnership has consistently delivered provocative yet timeless designs, as seen in Look 39. The combination of sensuality and sophistication is a delicate balance that few designers can achieve.

The attention to detail in these designs is evident in the tight-fitting tees that Communier admires, particularly those with prominent bicep lines. This focus on comfort and style has resonated with many, offering hope for those who struggle to find clothing that fits their needs.

GQ: https://www.gq.com/story/best-fashion-runway-menswear-looks-ss27

Tom Ford's Spring/Summer 2027 show featured models engaging in suggestive behavior on the catwalk, including one model running her hand over another's breasts as she walked by. The atmosphere was electric, with sound effects simulating a woman reaching orgasm adding to the excitement.

Meanwhile, at Diesel's show, the audience got involved, with more and more people starting to make out with each other halfway through the event. It was like an impromptu flash mob, with the crowd embracing their desires in a way that was both surprising and liberating.

At Mugler, creative director Miguel Castro Freitas set the tone before the first look even appeared on the catwalk. Screens displayed erotic footage, including images of snails mating, sweaty skin, and people kissing. It was a bold move, but one that seemed to pay off in terms of creating a sense of anticipation and desire.

The shows were not just about shock value, however, they also reflected a deeper interest in exploring the human experience through fashion. As Dr. Valerie Steele, director of the Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology, pointed out, designers are looking for ways to create a genuine sense of desire in their audiences.

With the luxury industry facing tough times, with sales declining and people choosing to spend their money elsewhere, fashion designers are searching for new ways to engage their audience and make their products stand out.

London-based R&M Leathers has experienced remarkable growth since 2024, reporting a significant annual increase of approximately 45% in sales.

The brand's focus on made-to-order leather and fetishwear has resonated with customers, and its unique approach to fashion has set it apart from other luxury brands.

Sex positivity is deeply ingrained in R&M Leathers' identity, which was reflected in its SS27 debut at Pornhub-backed London Fashion Week, featuring OnlyFans stars among the cast.

This bold move demonstrated the brand's willingness to push boundaries and challenge traditional notions of fashion.

The luxury industry has been struggling with declining sales and a shift in consumer spending habits.

The fashion industry is embracing a new era of sensuality, driven by the understanding that artificiality can be faked but visceral reactions cannot. Fashion theorist Rian Phin points out that culture has become increasingly influenced by artificial elements, prompting designers to tap into more primal desires.

In recent years, societal attitudes towards bodies have shifted towards greater modesty and restraint, causing individuals to disconnect from their emotional and irrational desires. This trend is particularly evident in the way people present themselves online, where digital fatigue and surveillance paranoia can lead to a sanitized expression of self.

Fashion trends editor Katie Devlin notes that this shift has resulted in a "messiness being erased from human experience, as conservative ideals, gender norms, and dress codes become increasingly prevalent. The influence of AI and digital culture is also contributing to the erosion of individuality and emotional depth.

Mugler's latest collection is a prime example of designers pushing back against this trend by embracing instinctive desires. By exploring the concept of surrendering to primal impulses, designer Castro Freitas drew on philosopher Georges Bataille's ideas about eroticism.

The runway show featured a mix of avant-garde silhouettes and unconventional materials, including feathers, synthetic hair, and translucent organza. These elements were combined in bold, exaggerated shapes that defied traditional notions of beauty. Insect-like décolletés, feline-inspired pantaboots, and cheetah-print effects added to the show's surreal atmosphere.

The imagery accompanying the show was deliberately provocative, with footage of mating snails and kissing bodies displayed alongside the clothes. However, the garments themselves were designed to evoke a sense of sensuality rather than simply showcasing bare skin. The emphasis was on creating an immersive experience that engaged the viewer's senses.

According to designer Castro Freitas, the collection was intended to tap into our primal desires and allow us to surrender to our instincts. He cites philosopher Georges Bataille's ideas about eroticism as a key influence on his design process. By exploring the concept of surrendering to primal impulses, Castro Freitas aimed to create a sense of connection between the wearer and the viewer.

The show's environment was deliberately overwhelming, with 32 screens displaying imagery by Casper Sejersen alongside Björk's voice and Teho Teardo's soundscape. This cacophony of sights and sounds was intended to leave the audience feeling overstimulated, a state that Castro Freitas sees as a reflection of our modern world. We are constantly bombarded with information, he argues, and overstimulation has become the new norm.

Castro Freitas has banned the word sexy from his atelier, preferring instead to focus on the concept of sensuality. He believes that sensuality is a feeling that cannot be reduced to a visual shorthand, whereas sexy can feel impersonal and disconnected from its context. By emphasizing sensuality over sexiness, Castro Freitas aims to create garments that are not just visually striking but also deeply personal and instinctive.

The fashion industry is shifting its focus from showcasing physical perfection to creating garments that evoke a sense of embodiment. This change in perspective is particularly evident on the runway, where designers are now prioritizing comfort and tactility over sheer display.

Designers are using materials like latex to create clothing that engages the senses, rather than just appealing to the eye. For instance, Ferragamo's recent collection featured trench coats made from latex, which not only look sleek but also offer a tactile experience. This approach challenges traditional notions of fashion as purely visual.

The emphasis on tactility and embodiment is also linked to our increasingly screen-mediated culture, where authenticity is constantly called into question. In this context, designers are exploring ways to create garments that can't be faked or manufactured. By incorporating sensory elements like texture and touch, they're creating clothing that feels real and authentic.

This new direction in fashion is not just about aesthetics; it's also about acknowledging the human impulses behind design. Designers are now willing to share their own desires and inspirations, whether it's what excites them or what draws them to a particular material. This shift towards transparency and honesty is helping to create clothing that's not just visually striking but also deeply personal.

Fashion brands are increasingly using provocative imagery and unconventional models to create a sense of intimacy and connection with their audience. This shift towards transparency and honesty is evident in Loewe's collaboration with artist Talia Chetrit, who creates portraits that explore themes of sexuality and identity.

One notable example of this trend is Rosalía's custom Yasmina Atta piece, which she wore during her recent tour. The outfit, featuring a latex bodice, lace bra, studded belts, and tutu, blended ballet and opera influences with a subversive twist, reflecting the music star's edgy style.

The use of unconventional models and imagery is not just about making clothes look sexier or more provocative, but rather about creating an emotional connection with the viewer. According to Devlin, world-building" has become a key strategy for brands looking to engage with their audience on a deeper level.

Vogue: https://www.vogue.com/article/in-the-age-of-ai-fashion-wants-to-turn-you-on

The production values at these high-end events were as impressive as ever, with elaborate sets, stunning lighting, and celebrity cameos adding to the glamour. Meanwhile, top designers continued to push the boundaries of fashion, offering a wealth of inspiration for those in attendance.

One trend that caught attention on Paris' runways was the unconventional placement of belts. Designers like Valentino, Balenciaga, and Tom Ford featured slender belts worn low on the hips, a look that may have been inspired by the resurgence of low-rise pants. However, not all designers followed this lead.

The opposite approach was taken by Celine and Miu Miu, which opted for belting above the waist with more casual materials such as shoelaces and string. This contrast highlights the diverse influences and creative visions at play in the world of high fashion.

The resurgence of monastic chic color on Parisian runways has brought a new level of understated drama to high fashion. Designers such as Jean-Paul Gaultier and Celine have reimagined traditional monochrome looks with a sense of creativity that is both subtle and impactful.

This unexpected combination of formality and sensuality is particularly intriguing, given the humble origins of monastic attire. Fashion's usual associations with luxury and excess are turned on their head as designers experiment with the drape and drama of religious vestments in a way that borders on seductive.

The fusion of monastic robes with skin-revealing silhouettes has resulted in some truly show-stopping looks, perfect for those who want to push the boundaries of formal dressing. For those seeking an excuse to incorporate bold accessories into their wardrobe, such as rope belts, these designs offer a stylish and daring solution.

As the holiday season approaches, questions about what constitutes black tie attire will become increasingly relevant. With designers already experimenting with formal wear that blurs the lines between tradition and innovation, it's clear that fashion is on the cusp of a major evolution in its approach to dressing up for special occasions.

Designers at Paris Fashion Week are pushing the boundaries of formal wear by introducing unconventional twists on traditional black tie attire.

Matthieu Blazy's show featured a range of innovative takes on the classic tuxedo, while Haider Ackermann experimented with bold combinations such as peak-lapel jackets paired with ultra-low U-neck tees or spangly vests.

Pierpaolo Piccioli's designs for Balenciaga also deviated from traditional black tie, incorporating mesh sweaters and baggy leather jackets into his looks.

These unorthodox approaches to formal wear are likely to influence the way men dress up for special occasions in the coming months.

The message "less is more" has been a recurring theme in Parisian fashion shows, but applying this principle to everyday attire can be a challenging task.

A case in point is the enigmatic combination of white trousers, camel sport coat, and black tee that Michael Rider showcased for Celine on the runway. While it may not have been an exact replica of his design, his styling has undoubtedly inspired others to experiment with similar looks.

The recent Paris fashion shows, including those by Jean Paul Gaultier, Tom Ford, and Loewe, featured a notable absence of traditional shirts, instead opting for a more relaxed approach that prioritizes confidence over formal attire.

GQ: https://www.gq.com/story/paris-fashion-week-trends-2026