---
title: "Celine Sees Resurgence in Popularity Under Michael Rider's Creative Direction"
url: https://newscentral.site/celine-sees-resurgence-in-popularity-under-michael-rider-s-creative/
language: en
publisher: "News Central Site"
section: "Style"
published: 2026-10-28T05:30:00.000Z
updated: 2026-10-28T09:29:35.708Z
id: 6609537a-8906-40ae-829f-30a5d733a6c5
source: "Vogue https://www.vogue.com/article/at-celine-ceo-severine-merle-is-taking-things-one-triomphe-at-a-time"
attribution: "Link to https://newscentral.site/celine-sees-resurgence-in-popularity-under-michael-rider-s-creative/ and name News Central Site when you quote or summarize this story."
---

# Celine Sees Resurgence in Popularity Under Michael Rider's Creative Direction

Michael Rider's return as creative director has led to increased popularity for Celine, including extensive press coverage and a surge in demand among clients.

Celine's latest collections have been making waves in the fashion world, with its distinctive red and blue hues appearing on runways, city streets, and even the red carpet. The designer behind this trend is Michael Rider, who returned to the brand last year as creative director after a nine-year absence. Since his comeback, Celine has experienced a resurgence in popularity.

Rider's individualized approach to dressing has resonated with customers, making products truly desirable in an industry where that can be increasingly difficult to achieve. This desirability is reflected in the extensive press coverage of Rider's designs. According to Séverine Merle, CEO of Celine since 2017, this momentum is strong and worth building upon.

Merle herself embodies the brand's aesthetic, wearing a Heirloom necklace featuring an assortment of charms. As she speaks from her office at Hôtel Colbert de Torcy in Paris, it's clear that Rider's influence has extended beyond the runway to the executive level as well. The designer's return to Celine in 2024 marked a significant shift for the brand.

Since then, Rider has presented three critically acclaimed collections: FW26 men's and women's shows and SS27. These presentations have been hailed as a trilogy of triumphs, solidifying Rider's position at the helm of Celine. The brand's success is not limited to fashion circles; its impact can be seen in popular culture.

In an email, Nicole Phelps, global director of Vogue Runway and Vogue Business, requested that team members share their favorite moments from SS27 show season. Her response was telling: "As usual it'll be first-come, first-served. I'm grabbing Celine." This interest is not limited to industry insiders; Celine has also seen an increase in demand among its clients.

Despite the challenges posed by a slowing global economy and reduced luxury spending in China, Merle remains optimistic about the brand's prospects. She notes that desirability is taking hold among American clients, who are driving growth for Celine. This trend suggests that Rider's designs have struck a chord with consumers.

The question now is how to sustain this momentum. With LVMH Fashion Group's support under Pietro Beccari's leadership since January 2026, Merle seems confident in her ability to capitalize on the demand that exists and continues to grow for Celine.

The luxury fashion brand is aiming to increase its desirability among a wider audience, with CEO Séverine Merle confident that Celine can capitalize on growing demand for the label.

To achieve this goal, the brand will focus on remaining highly profitable while investing in new initiatives and product lines. This strategy includes addressing both ends of the pricing spectrum, from ultra-high-end offerings to more accessible entry-level categories.

Celine's approach to expanding its appeal also involves enhancing its menswear and fragrance offerings, although these are not the primary focus of the brand's growth plans. The goal is to make Celine a desirable choice for customers across different demographics and geographic regions.

Despite ongoing challenges in China, Merle emphasizes that the brand is now focusing on local customers in markets where it enjoys strong desirability, such as the US, South Korea, and Japan. This shift reflects the brand's efforts to adapt to changing market conditions and consumer preferences.

The regional sales mix for Celine is reportedly more balanced than ever before, with Merle highlighting the importance of these key markets. Europe remains a crucial region for the brand, despite the challenges it faces in certain areas.

Celine's history dates back to 1945 when it was founded by Céline Vipiana. The label has undergone significant transformations over the years, including its acquisition by LVMH in 1996 and subsequent rebranding efforts.

Under Hedi Slimane's leadership from 2018 to 2024, Celine expanded into new product categories such as menswear, couture, and fragrance while establishing a distinct aesthetic that blended Parisian chic with LA-inspired glamour.

Celine's recent success can be attributed to its creative director Michael Rider's vision for the brand. According to CEO Séverine Merle, Rider aimed to introduce bags featuring variations on the logo when he arrived at Celine in 2018.

One notable example of this is the Soft Triomphe bag, which embodies Rider's approach to reimagining classic designs with a softer, more relaxed aesthetic.

Celine's rise to prominence has also been reflected in its performance on luxury resale platforms. On ReSee, the average price for vintage Celine bags has increased by over 50% since Rider took over, according to co-founder and CEO Sofia Bernardin.

This surge in demand is largely driven by interest in Phoebe Philo's designs, which account for approximately 83% of the Celine sold on these platforms. Hedi Slimane's contributions and vintage pieces make up the remaining portion.

The brand's popularity has also been evident in online searches. On Vestiaire Collective, queries combining "Celine" and "Michael Rider" increased by 200% between January and September 2026.

Following Rider's SS27 show, which featured bags with the Triomphe logo, searches for this specific design skyrocketed by 1,800% compared to the previous month.

The attention-grabbing shows by Celine's creative director have been widely praised for their unique approach to product presentation.

Rider's self-styling has been particularly lauded, as has the innovative scenography of the re-see concept, which involves showcasing products through a combination of accumulation, layering, and clever use of color variations or monochromatic schemes.

This distinctive approach is also reflected in the visual merchandising strategy employed at Celine's flagship store on 53 Avenue Montaigne, which serves as a pilot for the brand's wider retail design.

During a recent visit to the boutique, it was clear that this concept has been applied with great success, with striking product displays and clever use of color throughout the store.

The result is an immersive shopping experience that sets Celine apart from its competitors and reinforces the brand's reputation as a leader in fashion innovation.

Industry insiders have taken notice of Celine's resurgence, with some predicting that the brand will become increasingly popular among those who value avant-garde style.

This trend is reminiscent of the buzz surrounding Loewe when Jonathan Anderson took over as creative director, and experts are now speculating whether Celine can sustain its momentum and continue to captivate the fashion world.

The ongoing unrest in France has sparked concerns about its impact on Celine's business operations. CEO Séverine Merle acknowledges the significance of the French market, which accounts for nearly half of Europe's sales for the brand.

From a business perspective, maintaining a strong presence in France is crucial, but it also plays a vital role in shaping the brand's image. As a Parisian brand, Celine's heritage and identity are deeply rooted in the city. Merle remains optimistic about the situation, noting that Paris has weathered difficult times before and always managed to bounce back.

The US market, on the other hand, is experiencing a surge in popularity for Celine. The brand has invested heavily in expanding its retail network across the country over the past few years. This strategic move coincided with the introduction of Michael's vibrant and colorful aesthetic, which resonated strongly with American customers.

Celine's recent store openings in Los Angeles and Florida have been met with enthusiasm from consumers. A new location is set to open in Bal Harbour by the end of the year, while existing stores are being renovated or expanded. Merle emphasizes that the brand is not focused on a store-opening strategy but rather on revamping its existing presence.

The trend towards luxury footwear has emerged as a significant opportunity for Celine. Rider's debut collection with the brand has been particularly successful, with popular styles including the Jelly and Cage sandals from SS26 and the Aura loafer featuring a small Triomphe logo in various colors.

Merle attributes the brand's success across all customer acquisition categories to Michael's holistic approach to dressing and accessorizing. This inclusive strategy has driven strong sales growth in entry-level categories such as belts and silk scarves, with increases of up to triple digits in some cases.

The expansion of Celine's retail network and product offerings is yielding impressive results, both domestically and internationally. With a continued focus on evolving its brand image and customer experience, Celine appears poised to sustain its momentum in the market.

Celine's CEO Séverine Merle is focused on striking a balance between creativity and affordability in the brand's products.

This approach is evident in the pricing of its bags, where the company aims to offer high-quality designs at more accessible prices without compromising on quality or style.

The Duffle bag in canvas, priced at €1,300, is a bestseller that exemplifies this strategy, allowing customers to own a stylish and creative bag within a relatively affordable range.

Celine's focus on accessories extends beyond bags, with an emphasis on creating a cohesive brand image across all product lines.

Merle notes that the company pays close attention to prices, ensuring that every new launch is carefully priced to strike a balance between quality and affordability.

The result is a diverse range of products that cater to different tastes and budgets.

Celine's menswear line, launched under creative director Michael Slimane, currently represents less than 10% of the business but has significant potential for growth.

Merle believes that the brand's creativity now appeals to a broader audience, allowing it to tap into new markets and customer segments.

However, the goal is not to increase menswear's share of total revenue but rather to enrich the women's line through shared design elements and collaborative creative efforts.

The same design studio works on both women's and men's collections, fostering a cohesive brand image across all product lines.

Celine has already begun to showcase its menswear on the runway, with Rider's debut in June marking an important milestone for the brand.

Merle notes that holding dedicated menswear shows allows the company to express the category in its own right, while also incorporating men into women's shows will continue as a way of celebrating shared design elements.

For now, couture will remain without a dedicated runway show, but Merle emphasizes that the company is working on developing this aspect of the business.

The exact figure for Celine's revenue from menswear is not disclosed, but it is clear that the brand sees significant potential in this area.

---
Source: [Vogue](https://www.vogue.com/article/at-celine-ceo-severine-merle-is-taking-things-one-triomphe-at-a-time)  
Published by News Central Site: https://newscentral.site/celine-sees-resurgence-in-popularity-under-michael-rider-s-creative/